As I arrived at The Standard on Wednesday afternoon, BEEF was setting up to perform for Arielle de Pinto’s AW12 jewelry presentation. When they recieved their cue to start, hypnotic sounds began to waft from the speakers.
Models emerged in the designer’s architectural pieces of crocheted and solid metal. Inspired by urban nomads and tribal spirituality, the eclectic showing ended with a distinctive solo dance routine.
Post by Amanda LaMela
Despite the unwelcoming weather, we spent our Saturday afternoon at The Standard Hotel for Swimming with Sharks New York Launch Event. From 3-9pm, persistant partiers braved the scattered rain and filed into Le Bain for a day of poolside drinking, watergun fights, and rooftop indulgences.
Post by Amanda LaMela
Harold Camping and his band of Dispensational Premillennialists have “guaranteed” that Rapture will occur on May 21, 2011 at 6pm. Essentially, this means that all of the good people will evaporate into paradise, leaving the rest of us to party with reckless abandon on Earth. That is… until the sun explodes or something.
No, seriously, it says so on Wikipedia and everything.
So, if you happen to be on Earth at 6:01pm on May 21st, join us for a champagne cocktail on the 18th floor at the Standard. And you’d better be dressed to distress.
Post by Amanda LaMela
In typical District L style, we'd perhaps open this post with a clever paragraph wherein we reminisce fondly about last week - what with all the rushing too and fro between venues, furious, finger-callusing live-tweeting, and countless moments of anticipation as the plastic was peeled back from the runway time and time again. We might even throw in an alcohol-related pun, hurl a barb at the sucky realities of returning to the daily grind, and spit some vitriol about people on the subway.
But the fact of the matter is that it's 10 PM on a Tuesday and we'd rather just jump straight to the LaPointe (sorry, had to) - here are our top 5 picks for best collections from NYFW A/W 2011:
This one should come as no surprise - ever since attending the plucky designer's debut show last September, we've been staunch supporters of LaPointe's dark, alien aesthetic that resonates as simultaneously precise and effortless. Did her Fall collection climb straight out of the primordial ooze of a Roland Flexner print? Or did it reverse sublimate from thin air to monolithic vibrancy?
2. Bensoni
Gothic wedding vignette? How rad was that? The duo behind Bensoni is all about balance, taking inspiration from the past yet tempering it with forward thinking. Needless to say, they didn't disappoint for Fall. There was a hefty dose of 90's gloom and doom in their presentation this season, but taken to the next level with an infusion of minute detail and texture play that has become a contemporary design mainstay.
3. Mik Cire
Mik Cire's Eric Kim is an accomplished design professional, and his collection this season made that fact more evident than ever. Last Spring, Kim gave us slouchy asymmetricality in linen and jersey; this Fall, he presented crisp, sharp tailoring in leather and gabardine. A quality that we value most in a designer is something Kim possesses in spades - the ability to surprise and deliver the unexpected without allowing their trademark sensibilities to become lost.
Designer Jane Ibrahim stirred something far down inside of us with her evocative Fall line for Maisonette 1977. Taking inspiration from Christopher Nolan's "Inception", she served as the architect behind a towering metropolis rising out of the ether of the subconscious. It was well-edited, modern, and to be quite honest it just had a certain je ne sais quoi about it that drew us in deeper, deeper, and deeper still.
5. NOMIA
Like Bensoni, NOMIA was another delightfully intimate affair in the Standard's Highline Room - a perfect setting for an enticing collection of sleek, geometric sportswear that can easily find a home in any closet (or bedroom floor, whatever). We have to give praise to lines like NOMIA that strike rest firmly in that hard-to-hit intersection of concept and accessibility. Like Madisen said, "[The Standard's] attuned blend of nature, urbanity, and notorious exhibitionism matched perfectly with the theme of NOMIA’s runway."
Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva
This New York Fashion Week began like all of its predecessors – one day early. On Wednesday, February 8, District L welcomed in Fashion Week at 320 Studios with Mimi Plange and her collection of “Scarred Perfection.” Inspired by African tribal traditions of body modification, Plange’s presentation effectively emulated deliberate repetition with ruffles, pleats, and embellishments.
Thursday was the first official day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and District L kicked it off backstage with Irina Shabayeva. Before viewing her fiery-hot-icy-cool runway collection, we took a moment to snap photos of the pre-show preparation. After the show, we chatted with Irina and discussed the basis of her inspiration – life, death, rebirth, and evolution.
The following afternoon, Norman Ambrose presented his flawless answer to society’s unfortunate lack of innovative elegance. With feather details and glittering gowns, his 1970s vibe of decadence was the perfect setting to recapture irreverent sophistication.
Later that evening, Nick and I headed over to experience Sally LaPointe’s picture-perfect Polaroid-inspired runway collection. While we were Chelsea-bound, Madisen ventured to The Standard to view NOMIA in all of its sensually streamlined glory. We then met up to spend our Friday evening at Bedlam for NOMIA’s afterparty – drinking, dishing, and surveying the evening’s gaggle of PYTs.
Unfortunately, the sun returned a bit quicker than expected. When I realized morning had become a reality, I grabbed Saturday’s gear and rushed up to Lincoln Center for General Idea. The 9:00am runway show was inspired by the letter-M; but more specifically, “mountains” and “military.” Watching each male model emerge from the runway tent made my headache melt away like in an ice cap South America.
By 10:30, I wandered over to The Box for Binetti’s model presentation. The collection exhibited an effortless air of exotic affluence. I lingered in this luxury fashion safari for awhile before walking right into a Betsey Johnson interview. As I watched her animated facial expressions, I dialed up my P.I.C., “Get the hell over here. You’re missing EVERYTHING.”
After Nick arrived uptown, we decided it was time for brunch. We green-eggs-and-glammed it at a nearby haunt while assembling our coverage from the morning prior. Once we enjoyed a solid hour of bottomless champagne, we sauntered back to Lincoln Center for Vivienne Tam and Mik Cire.
While we remained uptown, Madisen journeyed over to Philip-Lorca diCorcia’s book signing for Eleven. The event, which was held at Chelsea’s David Zwirner Gallery, showcased diCorcia’s photographic portfolio with W magazine.
Around 6:30pm, Nick and I entered Maisonette 1977’s dream sequence. Jane Ibrahim’s lucid visions transported us to an unpredictable, volatile urban-utopia. After deciding that Maisonette 1977 was a top choice for FW11, we closed the day of shows with Toni Francesc. That night, we celebrated Mik Cire’s fantastic collection at his Hudson Terrace after-party.
Sunday morning began as Sunday mornings usually do – brunch. When we finished our bellinis, we stopped at OAK for a pre-show purchase and then trekked back over to The Standard. After killing some time on the 18th floor, we headed downstairs to enjoy Bensoni’s Gothic Wedding Vignette.
We finished off the weekend with Zang Toi’s Sunday night show in The Studio, which was an undeniable crowd pleaser. As the cheering faded, we headed back downtown to prepare for the last four days of the season.
My Monday line-up started with MARTINmartin at the Audi forum, while Madisen and Rachel made their way up to Guishem. After enjoying a collection of androgyny, destruction, and reincarnation, I rushed over to Studio 580 for friend-and-favorite, Lois Eastlund.
Tuesday morning began bright-and-early with a presentation by Trias. As soon as we finished adoring Joaquin Trias and his personal definition of luxury, we traveled back downtown to The Park for delicious cocktails and bites. Such nourishment led our revitalized bodies to the Chelsea Art Museum for Nico Lena’s debut event. The event’s reception brought quite the crowd – and yes, that crowd did include Dustin Diamond.
Our second stop of the evening was Lincoln Center. After enjoying a glass of Kim Crawford, we made our way into Tibi’s 90s-infused collection.
Day 7 of Fashion Week began with a frantic search for someone to apply my false lashes. Once I achieved such a task, we headed over to The Standard for the strong and silent boys of Rochambeau. About 50 photographs later, we ventured up to Allegri’s cocktail party and presentation in Lincoln Center’s courtyard. We enjoyed the perfect combination of models with mannequins while sipping wine and chatting with emerging designer, Loris Diran.
Post-chat, we darted backstage to get an inside peak at Anna Sui. As models were preparing for their walk of folklore and fantasy, we snapped a few photos of the hectic scene. Of course, I had to bolt before Sui even started to make it to Milk Studios in time for The Blonds. The flaxen-haired duo presented an unforgettable drag-and-dragon show, daring us to even try to find another show more outrageous. While we watched two dancing dragons galloping down the runway, Rachel and Madisen attended Odd Molly’s model presentation in The Box at Lincoln Center.
We ended our Fashion Week follies at the Three Year Anniversary of Pinstripe Magazine on 93 Grand. As we toasted our glasses of Star Vodka in the Buckler Store basement, we mused, “So, what do we have in mind for next season…?”
Post by Amanda LaMela
Emerging menswear line ROCHAMBEAU has risen through the esteemed ranks rather quickly over the past few years since the fateful meeting of trio Michael Venker, Laurence Chandler, and Joshua Cooper back in 2007. With features in SURFACE, Nylon, and Gotham Magazines, among other accolades, under their belt, the label's mantra of "taking chances" certainly seems to have paid off. Having done our homework, it was with great enthusiasm that we returned to the Highline Room at The Standard for the ROCHAMBEAU A/W 2011 presentation.
The paradox surrounding the amount of effort required in order to appear effortless is a constant in the fashion industry, and a stumbling block for many designers - how do you craft a look that maintains the integrity of inspiration without coming across as affected? It's always a sign of true skill when you chance upon one of those collections where the inspiration is evident yet open to the kind of interpretation that gives pause - ROCHAMBEAU, for us, is one of these.
It's not easy juxtaposing deconstruction with structure. However, the blend of the two found throughout yesterday's presentation - most notably in a rich red jersey wrap top paired with a structured grey blazer and black sport pants, and a paneled twill overcoat in navy with a rigid black button up and drop-crotch jersey pants - we thought highly successful.
There was an air of mystery about the looks as well, in that all together they very much formed a collection but we knew very little about the man inhabiting them. Sunburnt, nomadic, and silent, there is still an ease about ROCHAMBEAU's boy conveyed by the line's well-edited deconstruction. The pieces themselves communicate volumes without divulging too many specifics - no easy feat, yet one that the designers achieved effortlessly.
Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva
This past Friday, NOMIA’s sleek, geometric FW11 collection was presented in the intimate Highline Room at the Standard Hotel. The venue’s attuned blend of nature, urbanity, and notorious exhibitionism matched perfectly with the theme of NOMIA’s runway. Staying true to the designer’s body-conscious aesthetic, Yara Flinn demonstrated an artful use of cutouts and scandal-stirring hemlines. Pops of green infused a palate of neutrals and greys, providing an organic tone to this angular motif. Sheer overlays also added an ethereal ingredient to an otherwise structural collection.
The most fantastic part: No pants! The collection did enjoy its fair share of seamed leggings and jumpsuits, appropriate for Flinn’s streamlined-yet-sensual silhouettes. With versatile brunch seperates, a trench for walks along the Highline, and dresses made for afterparties at Le Bain, NOMIA’s collection set a gold Standard for FW11.
Post by Madisen Walker
Well, it's been real - Mercedes Benz Fashion Week S/S 2011 has ended, and we here at District L are absolutely bereft at the thought. It's a good thing we've got plenty of writing and re-capping left to do to take our minds off of this gaping absence in our lives. BUT - there remain just a few little nagging afterthoughts that are racking our exhausted, starved little brains. We're really scratching our heads over these, guys, and we may never sleep again until we figure out the answers.
1. Whatever happened to Toni Maticevski?
A District L favorite, Australian export Toni Maticevski, was notably absent from this season's line-up. The eveningwear designer, known for his emotive showings and ethereally angelic aesthetic, was nowhere to be found, much to our considerable consternation. We scoured Modem, the interwebs, and everything in between and found not a trace of him. We're going to have to go to Saba at Factory PR about this one.
A shot from Toni Maticevski's F/W 10 showing
2. All dark at the Altman Building?
The Altman Building, the fabulous venue space located at 135 West 18th Street, has long played host to a laundry list of high profile showings including Zac Posen, Loris Diran, Simon Spurr, and the now in absentia Toni Maticevski. We realized something was amiss when we recalled hearing absolutely no one mention a single show taking place there. After a closer inspection of this season's Modem our suspicions were confirmed: the Altman Building had been empty all week. A falling out with the building management? Zoning violation? Too distant from the Lincoln Center? We're hoping this was just some kind of weird fluke.
Another designer from down under, Karen Walker's S/S 2010 runway took place at the now mysteriously spurned venue.
3. Did Bryanboy steam that borrowed vintage Givenchy after partying at The Boom Boom Room?
This one is pretty self-explanatory -- Bryanboy was seen at The Standard's Boom Boom Room last Saturday sporting a vintage Givenchy leopard suit, borrowed after a shoot with Vogue Nippon. For me, a night at Boom Boom (or Le Bain for that matter) always involves a spill or two -- fingers crossed that Bryanboy escaped the same fate.
The blogger in question with Terence Koh at Alexander Wang's S/S 2011 showing.
Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva
District L is Amanda LaMela & Nicolas Sera-Leyva
