District L

The Monday before last was a show-hopping debacle – unavoidably misty, yet bitter and cold. It was the kind of weather that sits heavy on the hair and could stop an attendee in her tracks. But waterproof mascara, taxi cabs, and 30-minute blow-dry salons are created for a reason; this was not a collection I was about to miss.

Daniella Kallmeyer held her presentation at Parlor New York, the members-only restaurant and lounge in Soho. The walls were decorated with images of scandalous old Hollywood nightlife, setting the tone for her inspiration. Leather-clad models in sheer separates positioned themselves around the first room, eyes fixed in unwavering, sultry stares.

We grabbed a glass of champagne at the baroque-style bar and walked to the next section. Continuing Kallmeyer’s twisted-classic ambiance, the second room displayed long, angular shapes in muted gem tones. Body-skimming silhouettes blurred the lines between feminine and dangerous - old glamour and new school pleasures.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Smoke billowed out of the freshly hot-boxed Highline Loft for Highland’s F13 Collection. That conspicuous scent permeated the air, leaving one question in everyone’s mind: “How many models got stoned in the making of this presentation?”

A long-haired DJ spun in the back, eating cereal out of the box and drinking a can of PBR. Lava lamps lined the walls, popcorn and pillows were scattered on the floor, and tables held two bongs in front of the tube television. It looked like what the basement of Travis from Clueless might look like – 90s slacker paraphernalia with a hazy disposition.

Then the models filed in, each more ‘Stoner Casual’ than the next. Soft fleece vests over printed layered tees and knit hats were the uniform du jour. In head bands and long johns, this presentation pushed show production limits that have yet to be matched this season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Designer Yara Flinn presented slimming lines and polished silhouettes for the Westside urbanite with a subtle edge. Appropriately staged at The High Line Room, showgoers eagerly waited on The Standard’s terrace before filing into NOMIA on Tuesday evening.

The runway opened to Does It Look Like I’m Here? by Emeralds’. Trippy, arpeggiated synths filled the room as hemlines grazed metallic platforms in stone, eggshell, and crimson. Fading into icier sounds by Boards of Canada, Flinn closed with spring leathers and boxy blazers in her signature minimalist approach.

Post by Amanda LaMela

It would be impossible to overlook the common denominator on the New York runways last week. From fox to faux, Cennamo to COTA, fur frequented the shows more than any other trend. It surfaced on Day 1 at Ailey Studios for Danilo Gabrielli in the form of sophisticated stoles and trims. Son Jung Wan took a more grandiose approach during her Saturday morning showing, with emerald-toned raccoon jackets and fox-trim toppers.  The following day, Mathieu Mirano received a warm introduction for his red and black fur jackets at the Box in Lincoln Center.

Norisol Ferrari’s presentation on Valentine’s Day morning boasted lush mink jackets, fox-trim trenches, and sable-lined vests. Later that afternoon, I headed over to the Rubin Museum to catch the Josie Natori collection. Over champagne, Natori’s Mongolian boleros and fox-topped gowns were love at first sight, as they dramatically made their way down the museum’s spiraling staircase to an elegant piano soundtrack.

That following day, at the emotionally-charged Joanna Mastroianni showing, marabou magnificently masqueraded as fur, just as it had in days prior. A few hours later, NOMIA added a pelted touch to her streamlined urbanite collection. Raccoon resurfaced at our final show, The Blonds, adding a glittering finish to our sumptuous season.

Rafael Cennamo

Christian Cota

Danilo Gabrielli

Mathieu Mirano

Josie Natori

Son Jung Wan

NOMIA

Post by Amanda LaMela

On Day 7 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, NOMIA presented its signature streamlined metropolitanism in the Box at Lincoln Center. Relaxed urbanity emerged in loose knot-front jumpers, body-skimming silhouettes, and contrast-blocking. Against a rhythmic, concrete-jungle-esque soundtrack, designer Yara Flynn introduced a refreshing outlook for the fall season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

On Day 4 of NYFW, I headed downtown to Gavin Brown for Daryl K, the Dublin-born/Manhattan-rooted designer celebrating 20 years in New York’s fashion industry. Opening with drums and Kusmi Tea, the exclusive showing attracted a stylish crowd of devotees decked out in the label’s sleek slashneck throws and chic leather leggings – despite the unseasonable heat.

With runway sounds exclusively percussive, models matched their aural surroundings in looks that reflected both minimalism and spontaneity. Splash prints were paired with neutral colorblocking, black shift dresses, and sheer overlays. In breezy silhouettes that were both relaxed and metropolitan, models could not fight the urge to dance. Arabesques and pas jetés exhibited the movement and spirit of Daryl K’s anniversary show, an undisputed Sunday success.

Pyramid Club. WHAT?!

The Black Soft, hosted by Omen PR and East Village Boys, drew a crowd last night unlike the usual St. Patrick's Day spongers. And yes, there was an open bar. But it was a healthy open bar, stocked full with Kanon Organic Vodka. Did you hear that? ORGANIC!