As I arrived at The Standard on Wednesday afternoon, BEEF was setting up to perform for Arielle de Pinto’s AW12 jewelry presentation. When they recieved their cue to start, hypnotic sounds began to waft from the speakers.
Models emerged in the designer’s architectural pieces of crocheted and solid metal. Inspired by urban nomads and tribal spirituality, the eclectic showing ended with a distinctive solo dance routine.
Post by Amanda LaMela
After a much-needed Friday evening G+T, I waltzed over to Lincoln Center for Katya Leonovich’s AW12 presentation. Once again decorated with her original paintings, Leonovich filled the Box with leather frocks, opera gloves, and enough watercolor prints to snap me out of my one-drink-drowsies.
Continuing her trademark aesthetic – a focus on movement – Katya exhibited ethereal dresses with strappy necklines and soft flounces. She also introduced a new and somewhat contrasting architectural theme, with corset dresses and bodice tops mixing effortlessly with her signature prints.
Post by Amanda LaMela
R Bar’s red-drenched interior and downtown location set the fitting tone as guests arrived for Lois Eastlund’s Fashion Presentation. Just minutes away from her namesake boutique on 153 Ludlow, Lois spent her final minutes preparing models as friends and fans shared cocktails and conversation along underlit banquets.
Infusing new and classic color palettes into her signature mod styles, Lois offered the audience colorblocking with a kick: Hued geometrics, metallic trims and glossy, diagonal shapes – each look more eye-catching than the next.
Post-finale, invitees were ushered into the back room of R Bar for a special performance by The Happy Problem. Donning Lois Eastlund designs, their performance included new songs like Curvature, Headcase, and The Prettiest Girl.
Post by Amanda LaMela
Last season, ROCHAMBEAU introduced us to sun-kissed, Nordic men with good intentions. Carefully balancing structure with staunch, the ROCHAMBEAUs of AW11 impressed guests with well-edited depth.
And it seems that the label’s tune of “taking chances” continues, as ROCHAMBEAU moves away from the silent stability of last season and into something tougher, darker, more dangerous.
I suppose the mothers of Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper were too fond of the boys from last season. Maybe AW11 texted too much, asking where they were and what they were doing and who they were with and if it would be okay if they came along too. Perhaps it was the last straw when AW11 stopped by with chicken soup and wide eyes when the design duo lied and said they were too sick to go out.
Whatever the case may be, ROCHAMBEAU’s new boy has a motorcycle, a few tattoos he doesn’t remember getting, and a penchant for breaking laws. But this isn’t superficial suburban “anguish” – No, these SS12 boys lived on Avenue C in the 90s and learned a few things from their short stint in Ossining.
Chandler and Cooper have yet again pushed the envelope, instilling a memorable concept and hooking fans for another season.
Post by Amanda LaMela
After a pedicure, a cocktail, and a good night’s rest, I am finally ready to evaluate this first half of New York Fashion Week, in all of its crazy, hazy fervor.
We eased into the week on Thursday, with Douglas Hannant, The Vandelles, and the newly-discovered REALM. Champagne was consumed, dancing ensued, and the night ended with a little white lie.
But Friday was a fresh start – and my first stop was the Metropolitan Pavilion for IvanaHelsinki. After a painted procession of feather motifs and tribal patterns, I met up with Nick for Sally LaPointe’s heart-stopping runway show at 548 W 22nd street.
As expected, we left LaPointe feeling mentally stimulated and pleasantly mystified – so the cab ride to Exit Art served as the perfect break for inspirational debate. Once we arrived to Parke & Ronen, our churning little minds were momentarily halted by a parade of men wearing -- uh… what were they wearing? Oh, now I remember…
With one flick of a hand fan and a speedy cab ride, we pulled into Lincoln Center for Falguni and Shane Peacock. Experimental combinations of patterns, adornments, and mixed-media hoisted this design couple to the top of our list. The show closed with singer-songwriter, Porcelain Black, in a bold stomp down the runway in mixed-mesh and a gun-embellished bodysuit.
Saturday started with an express blowdry at Butterfly Studio Salon. As soon as the stylist boosted me out of my early-morning cocoon, I fluttered out of Butterfly and right back to Lincoln Center for Son Jung Wan’s intoxicating collection.
Giddy off the first show, I headed back downtown for Samantha Pleet. Drawing in a vibrant crowd, Pleet indulged guests with peek-a-boo cutouts and feminine silhouettes in muted sherbets and golds. Then, just a few blocks over, Kaelen invited us to a forest fairy dreamland at Drive In Studios.
I narrowly made it back to Lincoln Center in time for a model presentation by Farah Angsana. With flounces, silk rope belts, and rising waist-lines, Angsana decorated the Box with her modern versions of Aphrodite.
Post-Farah, we took a break at the Hudson Hotel to organize our notes, update photos, and grab a drink – after all, we hadn’t brunched all day. After recharging – ourselves, as well as our phones – we headed down to Good Units for the Eva Minge runway show.
Venexiana was our last show of the day. Juxtaposing her elaborate collection with the punkish sounds of The Dickies, Kati Stern brought Day 3 to a strong and invigorating close.
Sunday morning started early with an Americana-inspired collection by Katya Leonovich, followed by optimistic motivation by Lela Rose. The afternoon then quickly approached, bringing Daryl K’s drippy floral prints, with live drummers and dancing models.
After a quick break, I made it back to the tents for GUiSHEM’s sexy and assertive model presentation. With angular motifs, color blocking, and sharp necklines, designer Guillermo Jop challenged the sweetness of spring.
Custo Barcelona was my last show of the day. Guests packed in, 3D-glasses in hand, awaiting Custo’s Mirame looks. Icons of Summer by Cold Cave vibrated through The Stage, as Custo presented his technologic prints for SS12.
And now that Monday is almost complete, it’s time to stock up on enough Starbucks and business cards for part two!
Post by Amanda LaMela
Minutes before our interview, cameras were devouring Katya Leonovich’s genuine joy and girlish modesty – a refreshing sight, as she stood before her collection this morning at Lincoln Center. Born in Moscow, Katya began her design career in Rome, continued in Paris, and has lived in New York for the past three years.
“It is new American inspiration,” Leonovich elaborated on her original works of football paintings that framed the model presentation. Displaying chiffon in these replicated prints alongside pieced blue denim, Katya exhibited her personal and professional transformation. “I combined the classic silhouettes from Italy with Parisian playfulness,” she explained. “But American football was so new and interesting to me – their costumes were something I had never before seen in Europe,” she explained.
The collection had an underlying theme of movement, with wind-blown hairstyles and sport-inspired backs, as well as draped and angular hemlines. And this ‘movement’ surpassed fabric and stylings, as guests milled through the Box, whispering adoring buzz-words like, “refreshing,” “energizing,” and “innovative.”
I have never eavesdropped on a coach’s winning locker room speech, but it seems like an appropriate time to use a resonating cliché... This win was for the fans.
Post by Amanda LaMela
I have come to terms with my restlessness: Sleep has never been a simple task for me. But leave it to the models to make everything look easy…
Kaelen’s SS12 collection favored draped rompers and oversized button downs in crinkled cotton and silk crepe de chine. Nocturnal wood nymphs in faded stripes and creamy hues remotely cured insomnia from their dreamy paradise.
Post by Amanda LaMela
After a spring of Seized Movement, Joaquin Trias took the opportunity this morning to articulate his definition – to “reaffirm the brand’s perspective on luxury.” The collection effectively provides this sense of luxury, with an emphasis on strength, perfection, and innovation, while still maintaining Joaquin’s feminine aesthetic.
The collection, aptly titled “Definition,” reflected the designer’s perspective through reinventing his signature looks -- architectural silhouettes, tech-inspired textures, and the ability to recreate natural movement.
Post by Amanda LaMela
There's something to be said about ireverent sophistication - the ability to exude elegance while maintaining an edge. With the societal devolution associated with trashy reality television, it's easy to lose hope and long for the days when true glamour triumphed. And, alas, confidence was restored Friday afternoon at Lincoln Center. The Box fervently welcomed in Norman Ambrose and his hoard of female exemplars. With rich wovens and luxuriant furs, the girls of Ambrose posed coolly and seductively for adoring onlookers.
Along with this revived sophistication, Ambrose returned a level of decadence we thought we had lost forever. Sequined body-skimming gowns with feather fringe detailing gave a subtle nod to the continuing 70s sex-glam theme, modernized by sheer bodices and unexpected fabric contrast.
View our gallery below for Norman Ambrose's awe-inspiring collection.
Rebecca Moses' model presentation on Thursday managed to be creative and light without the aftertaste of kitschy. The music was reminiscent of a French café, in the summer, while you are enjoying a glass of wine before noon subsidized by your tragically French boytoy of the moment.
The large faux books lining the walls made this true life fairytale, filled with cutely tailored mini skirt-suits and romantically draped dresses, all the more romantic. Lets just say if all books were this fun I would have spent more time in the library… actually reading… oppose to other fun things one can do in the library…… Merci Ms. Moses.
Post by Madisen Walker
District L is Amanda LaMela & Nicolas Sera-Leyva
