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Fashion with a vengeance since 2009. Today is Friday, May 25, 2012
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NYFW A/W 2011 - District L's Top 5 Collections


Feb22

In typical District L style, we'd perhaps open this post with a clever paragraph wherein we reminisce fondly about last week - what with all the rushing too and fro between venues, furious, finger-callusing live-tweeting, and countless moments of anticipation as the plastic was peeled back from the runway time and time again. We might even throw in an alcohol-related pun, hurl a barb at the sucky realities of returning to the daily grind, and spit some vitriol about people on the subway.

But the fact of the matter is that it's 10 PM on a Tuesday and we'd rather just jump straight to the LaPointe (sorry, had to) - here are our top 5 picks for best collections from NYFW A/W 2011:

 

1. Sally LaPointe

This one should come as no surprise - ever since attending the plucky designer's debut show last September, we've been staunch supporters of LaPointe's dark, alien aesthetic that resonates as simultaneously precise and effortless. Did her Fall collection climb straight out of the primordial ooze of a Roland Flexner print? Or did it reverse sublimate from thin air to monolithic vibrancy?

 

2. Bensoni

Gothic wedding vignette? How rad was that? The duo behind Bensoni is all about balance, taking inspiration from the past yet tempering it with forward thinking. Needless to say, they didn't disappoint for Fall. There was a hefty dose of 90's gloom and doom in their presentation this season, but taken to the next level with an infusion of minute detail and texture play that has become a contemporary design mainstay.

 

3. Mik Cire

Mik Cire's Eric Kim is an accomplished design professional, and his collection this season made that fact more evident than ever. Last Spring, Kim gave us slouchy asymmetricality in linen and jersey; this Fall, he presented crisp, sharp tailoring in leather and gabardine. A quality that we value most in a designer is something Kim possesses in spades - the ability to surprise and deliver the unexpected without allowing their trademark sensibilities to become lost.

 

4. Maisonette 1977

Designer Jane Ibrahim stirred something far down inside of us with her evocative Fall line for Maisonette 1977. Taking inspiration from Christopher Nolan's "Inception", she served as the architect behind a towering metropolis rising out of the ether of the subconscious. It was well-edited, modern, and to be quite honest it just had a certain je ne sais quoi about it that drew us in deeper, deeper, and deeper still.

 

5. NOMIA

Like Bensoni, NOMIA was another delightfully intimate affair in the Standard's Highline Room - a perfect setting for an enticing collection of sleek, geometric sportswear that can easily find a home in any closet (or bedroom floor, whatever). We have to give praise to lines like NOMIA that strike rest firmly in that hard-to-hit intersection of concept and accessibility. Like Madisen said, "[The Standard's] attuned blend of nature, urbanity, and notorious exhibitionism matched perfectly with the theme of NOMIA’s runway."

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


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Fashion Week Overview


Feb21

This New York Fashion Week began like all of its predecessors – one day early. On Wednesday, February 8, District L welcomed in Fashion Week at 320 Studios with Mimi Plange and her collection of “Scarred Perfection.” Inspired by African tribal traditions of body modification, Plange’s presentation effectively emulated deliberate repetition with ruffles, pleats, and embellishments.

Mimi Plange

Thursday was the first official day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and District L kicked it off backstage with Irina Shabayeva. Before viewing her fiery-hot-icy-cool runway collection, we took a moment to snap photos of the pre-show preparation. After the show, we chatted with Irina and discussed the basis of her inspiration – life, death, rebirth, and evolution.

Backstage at Irina Shabayeva

The following afternoon, Norman Ambrose presented his flawless answer to society’s unfortunate lack of innovative elegance. With feather details and glittering gowns, his 1970s vibe of decadence was the perfect setting to recapture irreverent sophistication.

Norman Ambrose

Later that evening, Nick and I headed over to experience Sally LaPointe’s picture-perfect Polaroid-inspired runway collection. While we were Chelsea-bound, Madisen ventured to The Standard to view NOMIA in all of its sensually streamlined glory. We then met up to spend our Friday evening at Bedlam for NOMIA’s afterparty – drinking, dishing, and surveying the evening’s gaggle of PYTs.

Sally LaPointe

Unfortunately, the sun returned a bit quicker than expected. When I realized morning had become a reality, I grabbed Saturday’s gear and rushed up to Lincoln Center for General Idea. The 9:00am runway show was inspired by the letter-M; but more specifically, “mountains” and “military.” Watching each male model emerge from the runway tent made my headache melt away like in an ice cap South America.

General Idea

By 10:30, I wandered over to The Box for Binetti’s model presentation. The collection exhibited an effortless air of exotic affluence. I lingered in this luxury fashion safari for awhile before walking right into a Betsey Johnson interview. As I watched her animated facial expressions, I dialed up my P.I.C., “Get the hell over here. You’re missing EVERYTHING.”

After Nick arrived uptown, we decided it was time for brunch. We green-eggs-and-glammed it at a nearby haunt while assembling our coverage from the morning prior. Once we enjoyed a solid hour of bottomless champagne, we sauntered back to Lincoln Center for Vivienne Tam and Mik Cire.

While we remained uptown, Madisen journeyed over to Philip-Lorca diCorcia’s book signing for Eleven. The event, which was held at Chelsea’s David Zwirner Gallery, showcased diCorcia’s photographic portfolio with W magazine.

Around 6:30pm, Nick and I entered Maisonette 1977’s dream sequence. Jane Ibrahim’s lucid visions transported us to an unpredictable, volatile urban-utopia. After deciding that Maisonette 1977 was a top choice for FW11, we closed the day of shows with Toni Francesc. That night, we celebrated Mik Cire’s fantastic collection at his Hudson Terrace after-party.

Sunday morning began as Sunday mornings usually do – brunch. When we finished our bellinis, we stopped at OAK for a pre-show purchase and then trekked back over to The Standard. After killing some time on the 18th floor, we headed downstairs to enjoy Bensoni’s Gothic Wedding Vignette.

We finished off the weekend with Zang Toi’s Sunday night show in The Studio, which was an undeniable crowd pleaser. As the cheering faded, we headed back downtown to prepare for the last four days of the season.

My Monday line-up started with MARTINmartin at the Audi forum, while Madisen and Rachel made their way up to Guishem. After enjoying a collection of androgyny, destruction, and reincarnation, I rushed over to Studio 580 for friend-and-favorite, Lois Eastlund.

Tuesday morning began bright-and-early with a presentation by Trias. As soon as we finished adoring Joaquin Trias and his personal definition of luxury, we traveled back downtown to The Park for delicious cocktails and bites. Such nourishment led our revitalized bodies to the Chelsea Art Museum for Nico Lena’s debut event. The event’s reception brought quite the crowd – and yes, that crowd did include Dustin Diamond.


Our second stop of the evening was Lincoln Center. After enjoying a glass of Kim Crawford, we made our way into Tibi’s 90s-infused collection.

Day 7 of Fashion Week began with a frantic search for someone to apply my false lashes. Once I achieved such a task, we headed over to The Standard for the strong and silent boys of Rochambeau. About 50 photographs later, we ventured up to Allegri’s cocktail party and presentation in Lincoln Center’s courtyard. We enjoyed the perfect combination of models with mannequins while sipping wine and chatting with emerging designer, Loris Diran.

Post-chat, we darted backstage to get an inside peak at Anna Sui. As models were preparing for their walk of folklore and fantasy, we snapped a few photos of the hectic scene. Of course, I had to bolt before Sui even started to make it to Milk Studios in time for The Blonds. The flaxen-haired duo presented an unforgettable drag-and-dragon show, daring us to even try to find another show more outrageous. While we watched two dancing dragons galloping down the runway, Rachel and Madisen attended Odd Molly’s model presentation in The Box at Lincoln Center.

We ended our Fashion Week follies at the Three Year Anniversary of Pinstripe Magazine on 93 Grand. As we toasted our glasses of Star Vodka in the Buckler Store basement, we mused, “So, what do we have in mind for next season…?”

 

Post by Amanda LaMela


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Fashion Week Picks - Runway Jams


Feb19

At the end of every fashion week, when all is said and done and we return to that featurless grey void known as the months of March through September, we can always rest a bit easier knowing that we've come away with three things - an amazing slew of runway reviews, a host of party pics to sift through, and some bangin' new tracks to add to our runway playlists.

When we aren't scribbling down notes, live-tweeting, video recording, or picture taking during shows, we're keeping our ears open for that other oh-so-important facet of show production: Music. So after firing up Shazam on my iPhone and giving everything we tagged a good listen through (and making the subsequent necessary purchases on iTunes), we've each picked out our favorites - check them out below!

 

Nicolas' Pick: The New Division - "Starfield"

Heard During: Mik Cire in The Lincoln Center Studio

Majestic and moving, with mildly washed-out vocals and a fantastic walking beat - perfect for Eric Kim's super-composed, almost romantic Fall collection for the label.

 

Amanda's Pick: Tiga - "Shoes"

Heard During: martinMARTIN at the Audi Forum

An edgy, sexy selection for martinMARTIN's no nonsense runway. Plus, may we add, probably the BEST music video we've ever seen - we're addicted.

 

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

 


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Mik Cire FW11 Gallery


Feb13

For finale video and runway review, click here.


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Tailored 180: Mik Cire A/W 2011


Feb12

Last season, former Monarchy designer Eric Kim presented a slick collection of deconstructed menswear that set a new standard - we're contintually impressed with his ability to market high concept sportswear. When the lights dimmed at Eric Kim's Mik Cire A/W 2011 runway earlier this afternoon, we thought we knew what to expect - but the clever Kim threw us for a loop and gave us something even better.

The highly sartorial collection we were treated to was glaringly refined. Kim's boy has turned away from loose and jagged asymmetric for Spring to sharply tailored and super-constructed for Fall. Raw thermals, slouch jersey wraps, and mercerized linen jackets gave way to goat suede trousers, cashmere flannel trenches, and gabardine waistcoats. Certain looks however, such as a tartan suit worn with a black silk sash, and a series of lambskin leather jackets, reminded us that Kim's edgy sensibility was still very much present.

Turning to the notes I jotted down during the show, which are scant because it was near impossible to take my eyes off the runway, I see jet-set, elegant, tailored, a well composed nomad, romantic simplicity. This really sums the Mik Cire A/W 2011 line up; Kim's versatility never fails to enthuse.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


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DL's Audio Wishlist - A/W 2011


Jan07

We're closing in on what is sure to be yet another fantastic MBFW at Lincoln Center, and we at District L are getting ourselves pumped in the best way we know how - stomping around Manhattan like megalomaniacal crazy people with scary electro from our "Runway" playlists at full blast on our iPods.

So yeah, sorry I came up behind you so quickly on the walk from the L last night - I'm not a rapistmuggermurderkiller, I swear. It's just that the sidewalk is so narrow, you're really slow, this Kavinsky is really head-banging, and I'm all cracked out on the Red Bull I've been drinking all day.

So what is District L hoping to hear in the tents this A/W? We'll tell you - without further ado, allow us to present our official A/W 2011 Audio Wishlist for runway!

…and no worries, it's not just a bunch of MGMT and Fischerspooner. It's 2011, you can relax.

1. Take Me Over - Cut Copy

Fun, dynamic, a good opener with a touch of doe-eyed innocence.

2. Little People (Black City) - Matthew Dear

Just the right amount of attitude, catchy but with some edge and mystery.

3. Make You Mine - Breakbot

Downtempo yet bouncy, reminiscent of Daft Punk without all the cliche.

4. Starlighter - Jupiter

Sexy - what could be more perfect than a song about a woman entering a room and demanding everybody's attention?

5. Motorcycle Boy - Mr. Flash

A solid "walker", with a twinge of roadhouse grime.

6. Empathy - Crystal Castles

We keep jockeying for Crystal Castles, and this is just the right song for the Mik Cires and Sally LaPointes of our world.

 

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


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Afterthoughts


Sep20

After a post-NYFW weekend spent catching up on sleep, nourishment, and the occasional phone call, District L found time to delve into our messy runway notes.

We started the week together at MAINENTRANCE, celebrating DJ Riggs and Berry Bachen's launch of their new creative space. As street-style photographer, Mr. Newton, furiously snapped away, guests enjoyed cocktails and music in the hidden Midtown location.

The first official day of New York Fashion Week in Lincoln Center was September 9. Our schedule for the evening included a picnic-perfect Verrier presentation, followed by a collective showing called Concept Korea. The next day, Nicolas ventured to the tents solo, where he enjoyed Buckler, EDITION by Georges Chakra, Ports 1961, and Alexander Berardi, just to name a few. We later met up on the Lower East Side for a fabulous Fashion's Night Out with Lois Eastlund.

Our weekend started in the Studio with Mik Cire. His male models must have gotten rowdy that night, because Rebecca Minkoff's girls were rocking a bit of morning-after attitude the following day. While I attended Minkoff's model presentation at the Box, Nick headed to the Audi Forum for some Thuy eye-candy.

We reconvened over EFFEN cocktails in the IMG Fashion Lounge before heading to see Joaquin Trias' intelligent design. We then attended Custo Barcelona's party-girl parade before jetting downtown to catch Sally Lapointe's inspiring debut show.


Monday rolled around, bringing Monique Lhuillier's delicious temptation to the Stage. Later that evening, the District L dyad met up for sorbet in Key West - I mean, the Perry Ellis runway show. Post-Perry, we cabbed it down to ION Studios to check out ANN YEE's model party over wine and remixes by Crystal Castles.

Tuesday brought us two fantastic fairytales:  TIBI and Toni Francesc. Afterwards, we headed to Toni's afterparty at Veranda, where we drank Given and chatted up Aimee from Song of Style.

We met up the following evening to witness some Lynn Wyatt-chic at Zang Toi. On Thursday, Nick attended the Argentina Group Show before meeting up with me at Milk Studios for The Blonds. After devouring our much-needed dose of sparkle, sex, and spunk, we headed back to Lincoln Center. Helping out with our hectic schedule, Madisen Walker remained uptown to cover Rebecca Moses, or rather, cover-to-cover Rebecca Moses.

The last New York show of the season was IVANAhelsinki. After searching relentlessly, Paola Ivana Suhonen found her sailor - in sun-washed nautical prints and rope-coil boots.

Post by Amanda LaMela


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More From Mik Cire


Sep18

You saw the video - now here are our shots. Menswear gets Cire-ous.

Post by Amanda LaMela


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Mik Cire is Cire-ous About Deconstruction: S/S 2011


Sep12

Deconstructed and mercerized trenches and blazers, drop-crotched cotton trousers and shorts, and ragged asymmetrical thermals formed the basis of Mik Cire's S/S 2011 menswear collection, sporting an appetizing palette of Olive green, Jet black, and Blood red. Menswear has been opening itself up to alot of flexible interpretation recently and it was relieving to see a designer not get too too conceptual but still imbue his collection with a clever, creative sensibility. Deconstruction is definitely emerging as a trend for Spring 2011 for both men's and women's, and Mik Cire's supremely wearable sportswear promises to become a fixture for the season.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


Staff

District L is Amanda LaMela & Nicolas Sera-Leyva

 




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