District L

The Monday before last was a show-hopping debacle – unavoidably misty, yet bitter and cold. It was the kind of weather that sits heavy on the hair and could stop an attendee in her tracks. But waterproof mascara, taxi cabs, and 30-minute blow-dry salons are created for a reason; this was not a collection I was about to miss.

Daniella Kallmeyer held her presentation at Parlor New York, the members-only restaurant and lounge in Soho. The walls were decorated with images of scandalous old Hollywood nightlife, setting the tone for her inspiration. Leather-clad models in sheer separates positioned themselves around the first room, eyes fixed in unwavering, sultry stares.

We grabbed a glass of champagne at the baroque-style bar and walked to the next section. Continuing Kallmeyer’s twisted-classic ambiance, the second room displayed long, angular shapes in muted gem tones. Body-skimming silhouettes blurred the lines between feminine and dangerous - old glamour and new school pleasures.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Despite yesterday’s early threat of Nemo, I braved the cold and headed to 39^th street for Ann Yee’s penthouse presentation. As guests were teased with the plethora of welcoming knit layers and accessories, models were cozying up to the emerging designer against a snowy, winter backdrop.

She revealed that her inspiration came from Black Mountain College, a now-inactive creative institution that boasted alumni such as Robert DeNiro Sr., Ray Johnson, and Joel Oppenheimer. Three students sat on the floor and live-sketched the presentation from different perspectives, adding a performance art aspect to the presentation. Drawing from the school’s counter-culture philosophy, Yee achieved refined nonchalance in slouchy boucle sweaters and cropped wool jackets. 

Post by Amanda LaMela

Elliott Evan was my last show of the day on Thursday. There were a few shows scheduled for that 7pm time slot, but I had made my decision on EE based on a few factors:

1. I love to see a designer’s New York debut.
2. This hair is amazing.

Despite my somewhat-flawed decision-making process, Elliott Evan’s debut proved to be the correct choice. Deconstructed leathers and draped knits toed the line between danger and androgyny. With their faces speckled with ice and snow, they appeared to have been trekking through Blizzard Nemo, completely disregarding Bloomberg’s storm advisory press conference. (Danger!) Yet, each male model had nail polish that matched the copper tone on my own nails. (Androgyny!)

The collection included shredded hides and face-shielding sweaters. An asymmetrical, super-plush sweatshirt prompted a female guest to deliberate, “I know this is menswear, but I would absolutely wear most of these pieces.” I nodded in agreement. The looks would find a happy home at ØDD, only to be quickly purchased for cozy winter brunches at Freemans or a few coffee cocktails at The Daily. Elliott’s extra-soft tunics would pair perfectly with some striped legwear by Love Beatrice or a pair of leather stove-pipes by Heather Lawton.

Elliott, if you’re reading this, let me know if you’d like me to lighten your luggage before you head back to LA. I can take a few heavy samples off your hands…

“I always forget about this part of Fashion Week,” I thought, as I listened to two name-dropping baritones talk about last night’s party at Finale while we waited for the elevator up to Studio 450. And I’m not talking about the kind of humblebraggery that is expected – even understood – this time of year. No, it was the “I-know-celebrities-and-I-am-going-to-name-them-all-right-now” kind of name-dropping. It’s repulsive.

But when we were finally ushered upstairs, a feeling of calm was restored. The winter-white scene for Heather Lawton’s F13 presentation was set against leafless brushwood. Light poured in from floor-to-ceiling windows, naturally highlighting the depth of every rich fabric and exotic hide. Jackets trimmed with stingray, coyote fur, and pony hair complimented a predominantly black-and-cobalt collection. Flawlessly draped jersey combined with crisp leather separates for an instinctive balance of feminine/masculine.

Before leaving the presentation, I watched the young, stunning designer answer questions with genuine enthusiasm. Eager guests and photographers were maniacally snapping away at her 25 looks positioned around the studio...and that’s the part of Fashion Week I never forget.

Post by Amanda LaMela

A week has passed since NYFW and we’ve been keeping busy with the diversions, parties, and events cleverly scheduled to entice those New Yorkers who hadn’t escaped to Milan:

Chez André: When the André from The Standard (Balazs) and the André from Le Baron (Saraiva) get together, they conceive unstoppable forces of glittering, scandalous nightlife madness. And this time they named it Chez André, a pop-up club under The Standard East. Existing this September only, Baby André slightly resembles Le Baron, yet has the energy of Le Bain circa-2010. Temporarily residing deep beneath Cooper Square is a cornucopia of glitz, graffiti, live music, smoke, and French guys. If only there were a photo booth…

Artist Presentation @Westway: On Wednesday, I headed to Clarkson Street for a presentation by Antonio Santini and six other emerging artists, curated by Arielle Cooper Lethem. In the boozy, backlit haze of Westway, we perused work by Santini, director, writer, and digital artist. And for those who stuck around for the afterparty, art put on its best party hat and got inventive.

PURE DEAD BRILLIANT & Love, Beatrice Showcase and Party: Champagne in hand, we maneuvered the third floor of Norwood last night. Our first stop was to pick up some stripes from LA-based brand Love, Beatrice. Two glasses later, we introduce ourselves to Nora Logan, PURE DEAD BRILLIANT designer and globetrotter. Spending her life in cities like New York, Paris, and Hong Kong, Nora taps her nostalgia with inspiration from travel and music, presenting lyric-stamped rings, cassette necklaces, and Vespa pendants. 

Post by Amanda LaMela

Angel Sanchez founded his namesake label in Caracas, Venezuela, after a short stint as an architect in the late 1980s. Maintaining this structural aesthetic for the past 25 years, Angel’s label has become synonymous with fresh, architectural eveningwear.

Sanchez presented his SS13 collection, titled “Flowers & Satellites,” in the Box at Lincoln Center on Monday 9/10. His seasonal direction was inspired by artist and fellow Venezuelan, Rafael Barrios, recently recognized for his trippy Op Art sculptures that debuted on Park Avenue early this year.

Boldly experimenting with color and shape, both artists have found success in transforming two-dimensional materials into gravity-defying designs. In a collaboration that seemed natural, if not vital, Sanchez teamed with Barrios to create geometrical accessories for his 25^th anniversary collection.

Post by Amanda LaMela

The sound of Blue Jeans (Penguin Prison Remix) by LDR resonated through Lincoln Center’s Studio as the first chiffon-and-fur combination entered Son Jung Wan’s runway on Saturday morning. Since last season, the number of guests filing in for Son nearly doubled – all clamoring to witness her show-stopping pieces like the raccoon fur-lined jacket and navy silk knot gown.

Son Jung Wan launched her namesake brand 12 years ago, gained high-end recognition in Korea, and has now fortified her position as one of the must-see emerging designers in New York.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Flurries were falling as guests accumulated inside the Elsinore for Andrew Buckler’s presentation Tuesday evening. Belvedere gimlet in hand, we made our rounds, quietly wondering where the models would find sufficient space to pose for photographs inside the well-attended menswear event.

In a knit beanie and dark attire, Buckler hoisted himself up above to crowd to say a few words. He announced the presentation would actually take the form of a video installation. The collection, which was inspired by riots and public discontent, was reflected in the short film that played on loop for the remainder of the event.

After Buckler, we made our way west for the VICE Style party. Pulling a ‘Wintour’, we stayed for a short bit – two drinks to be exact – before heading back to prepare for the week ahead. So yes, we did miss the puppy-BDSM fashion show…

Post by Amanda LaMela