District L

The relationship between fashion and the economy is a running motif of District L's in depth industry analyses - there are few correlations in our society with such a tangible and literally visible impact.

The last few seasons, we were all privy to the effect the downturn had on the industry - classic looks oozing with timeless wearability made an especially spectacular re-emergence. Particularly palpable after the decadent, angular 80's glamfest of F/W 2009 to be certain. With the timely rise of recessionista chic, color and concept quickly began to play second fiddle.

Which is why, this season, we were pleasantly surprised to see designers lose their poker faces and begin to go all in. Chances! Risks! Gambles! A touch of the dearly missed caprice and whim of the industry had returned. This attitude was manifested no better than by the escapist, nostalgic, and in some cases almost fairytale-ish surrealism that many labels embraced for Spring, seen everywhere from Monique Lhuillier's seductive Eden enchantress and Toni Francesc's woodland warriors in New York to Mary Katrantzou's digital dreamscapes in London and Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini's youthful, evocative collection for Fendi in Milan.

But the fun didn't stop there - check out some of these moments from Spring 2011's Great Escape.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Photos from Style.com and Jakandjil.com

This season, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi spun an escapist narrative of a different sort from what we heard in New York. Instead of a woodland romp a la Monique Lhuillier and Toni Francesc, Fendi's S/S 2011 girl harked back to a youth of fiery romance and reckless adventure spent under the mediterranean sun.

A distinctly seventies vibe prevailed throughout the runway, with a luscious palette of turquoise, copper, tangerine, and poppy spread across a lively assortment of tunics, caftans, and maxi-dresses. Full of vitality and luxury, the deconstructed silhouettes were made for windswept adventures by the seaside; however, the tone of the collection was less sex and more nostalgia. Each look communicated an individual story or memory with evocative geometries, prints, and colors.

Nostalgia isn't Lagerfeld's strong suit, however this season he showed us just how delicate and emotional his design process can be. Fine microprints, darned floral motifs, and strong yet humble silhouettes expertly communicate the complicated array of emotions brought about through reminiscence. The work of both designers is apparent in the collection, yet neither overshadows the other.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Images from Style.com

After a post-NYFW weekend spent catching up on sleep, nourishment, and the occasional phone call, District L found time to delve into our messy runway notes.

We started the week together at MAINENTRANCE, celebrating DJ Riggs and Berry Bachen's launch of their new creative space. As street-style photographer, Mr. Newton, furiously snapped away, guests enjoyed cocktails and music in the hidden Midtown location.

The first official day of New York Fashion Week in Lincoln Center was September 9. Our schedule for the evening included a picnic-perfect Verrier presentation, followed by a collective showing called Concept Korea. The next day, Nicolas ventured to the tents solo, where he enjoyed Buckler, EDITION by Georges Chakra, Ports 1961, and Alexander Berardi, just to name a few. We later met up on the Lower East Side for a fabulous Fashion's Night Out with Lois Eastlund.

Our weekend started in the Studio with Mik Cire. His male models must have gotten rowdy that night, because Rebecca Minkoff's girls were rocking a bit of morning-after attitude the following day. While I attended Minkoff's model presentation at the Box, Nick headed to the Audi Forum for some Thuy eye-candy.

We reconvened over EFFEN cocktails in the IMG Fashion Lounge before heading to see Joaquin Trias' intelligent design. We then attended Custo Barcelona's party-girl parade before jetting downtown to catch Sally Lapointe's inspiring debut show.

Monday rolled around, bringing Monique Lhuillier's delicious temptation to the Stage. Later that evening, the District L dyad met up for sorbet in Key West - I mean, the Perry Ellis runway show. Post-Perry, we cabbed it down to ION Studios to check out ANN YEE's model party over wine and remixes by Crystal Castles.

Tuesday brought us two fantastic fairytales:  TIBI and Toni Francesc. Afterwards, we headed to Toni's afterparty at Veranda, where we drank Given and chatted up Aimee from Song of Style.

We met up the following evening to witness some Lynn Wyatt-chic at Zang Toi. On Thursday, Nick attended the Argentina Group Show before meeting up with me at Milk Studios for The Blonds. After devouring our much-needed dose of sparkle, sex, and spunk, we headed back to Lincoln Center. Helping out with our hectic schedule, Madisen Walker remained uptown to cover Rebecca Moses, or rather, cover-to-cover Rebecca Moses.

The last New York show of the season was IVANAhelsinki. After searching relentlessly, Paola Ivana Suhonen found her sailor - in sun-washed nautical prints and rope-coil boots.

Post by Amanda LaMela

After a few tough seasons, it seems as if fashion yearns for a storybook ending. The industry's reaction to the economy last spring was like a scene from Alice in Blunderland - a child's defiant experiment gone awry. Last season, a sober Cinderella never made it to her ball. At last, this season seems like the final chapter of the fairytale, and as the trend would indicate, TIBI wanted to end her story on an upbeat note.

Against a picturesque, woodland background, Amy Smilovic succeeded in making us Happily Ever After. Feminine silhouettes in shades of mint, poppy, and daffodil, created a charmingly wearable collection in silk chiffons and lightweight linens. Fortunately TIBI, while always a crowd pleaser, is never as predictable as our childhood storybooks.

And in today's fickle climate, that characteristic is as valuable as spinning gold.

Post by Amanda LaMela

We get it -- you're at work and fuming that you aren't able to watch the Toni Francesc finale video that everyone's been talking about. Don't worry, despite the excessive amount of Given we drank at Toni's afterparty, I still remembered to wake up extra early to provide some of our best shots.

Post by Amanda LaMela

This was the first time District L had attended a Toni Francesc showing, therefore we had little point of reference by way of expectations besides heresay from seasons past. This spring, however, Toni's "Urban Forest" promised to lead us through "an intelligent forest in which we feel closer and more in touch with our natural surroundings".

A lot of designers tend to go down the "let's take a concept, juxtapose it with its' complete opposite, and see what happens" road, but Toni clearly designs with a steady, disciplined hand. The collection, which featured a number of deconstructed looks in this season's raspberry/cream/sage/carbon palette, had an effortless air about it. Even during the latter part of the show, featuring a number of more sculptural evening looks with wooden accents (not faux bois, like, real wood), every dart, buckle, and pleat came across as completely organic and flowed well. The industrial urban element was almost bellicose- mercerized fabrics in that ubiquitous basket-weave texture gave jackets and wraps a chainmail like appearance, and each model was styled like a woodland sprite in an army ready for war. Toni Francesc made a great first impression; his runway sent chills down our spine, and we like it when that happens.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva