Last season, designer Cheng-Huai Chuang brought us a Lolita-esque collection – femme fatale with a girlish façade. Since then, Cheng’s girls have ditched their good-girl charade, opting for a bolder form of feminine prowess. The plunging necklines and ruffles returned from last season, now garnished with leather harnesses and embellished hardware.
Post Amanda LaMela
On NYFW’s Day 5, asymmetry became the Standard Culture. In light layers, sheer fabrics, and a soft color palette, FACTORY by Erik Hart maintained the flavor of urban structure with geometric shapes. Overlooking an evening on The Highline, guests viewed Hart’s collection of varying hemlines, fresh prints, and subtle contrasting.
On Day 4 of NYFW, I headed downtown to Gavin Brown for Daryl K, the Dublin-born/Manhattan-rooted designer celebrating 20 years in New York’s fashion industry. Opening with drums and Kusmi Tea, the exclusive showing attracted a stylish crowd of devotees decked out in the label’s sleek slashneck throws and chic leather leggings – despite the unseasonable heat.
With runway sounds exclusively percussive, models matched their aural surroundings in looks that reflected both minimalism and spontaneity. Splash prints were paired with neutral colorblocking, black shift dresses, and sheer overlays. In breezy silhouettes that were both relaxed and metropolitan, models could not fight the urge to dance. Arabesques and pas jetés exhibited the movement and spirit of Daryl K’s anniversary show, an undisputed Sunday success.
Brooklyn designer, Samantha Pleet, debuted her namesake collection in 2006, combining new and old concepts from art, literature, and music. Having since expanded her namesake label to stockists worldwide while collaborating with Urban Outfitters on Rapscallion by Samantha Pleet, this young designer brought New York another season of dynamic inspiration.
Amongst champagne rounds in The Highline Loft, last Saturday’s presentation displayed water-color body suits, twist-knot rompers, and polished trenches. A blend of coy cutouts and hints of menswear enticed the Francophile within as Pleet’s customized soundtrack, a collaboration with Caroline Polachek from Chairlift, crooned to a crowd of industry insiders and admirers.
Post by Amanda LaMela
In Greek mythology, an angry Zeus commanded his son to create the first woman, a “beautiful evil” whose descendants would torment the race of men. So, Hephaestus formed Pandora, the first mortal female who was given “seductive gifts” by each of the gods. Athena then dressed her in a silvery gown and sent her off to open a big box of fun… or something like that.
Farah Angsana’s celestial SS12 collection boasted silk rope belts, contoured flounces, and ascending waist-lines. Simultaneously soft and bright, Farah’s magnetic presentation obscured the lines between sweet and tempting.
Post of Amanda LaMela
Despite a crowd of angry protesters, guests filed in for yesterday’s relocated GULI show at Cipriani 42nd Street. Little did the activists know, this forced location change was a perfect fit for GULI’s rich SS12 showing. Opulent and romantically pharaohic, Gulnara’s spellbinding collection drew influences from Middle Eastern and Asian cultures.
Post by Amanda LaMela
Last season, ROCHAMBEAU introduced us to sun-kissed, Nordic men with good intentions. Carefully balancing structure with staunch, the ROCHAMBEAUs of AW11 impressed guests with well-edited depth.
And it seems that the label’s tune of “taking chances” continues, as ROCHAMBEAU moves away from the silent stability of last season and into something tougher, darker, more dangerous.
I suppose the mothers of Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper were too fond of the boys from last season. Maybe AW11 texted too much, asking where they were and what they were doing and who they were with and if it would be okay if they came along too. Perhaps it was the last straw when AW11 stopped by with chicken soup and wide eyes when the design duo lied and said they were too sick to go out.
Whatever the case may be, ROCHAMBEAU’s new boy has a motorcycle, a few tattoos he doesn’t remember getting, and a penchant for breaking laws. But this isn’t superficial suburban “anguish” – No, these SS12 boys lived on Avenue C in the 90s and learned a few things from their short stint in Ossining.
Chandler and Cooper have yet again pushed the envelope, instilling a memorable concept and hooking fans for another season.
Post by Amanda LaMela
I sat down in Lincoln Center's Theatre on Monday evening distracted with heartbreak for narrowly missing Norman Ambrose's show. Although it hadn't been the first show I missed this season, it was certainly one of the more anticipated young designers on my schedule.
Then, the booming sounds of City Grrrl by CSS quickly ejected me out of my disappointment. Betsey Johnson's show had begun.
Betsey's daughter, Lulu, took to the runway, for the first time in 10 years, in a sexy, Brigitte Bardot-themed collection. Circling to songs like Ice Cream by New Young Pony Club, Lulu feigned bashfulness when the crowd cheered – that is, until mother dearest entered center stage dancing to Ass & Titties by DJ Assault.
Not a bad Monday, wouldn't you say?
Our Tuesday started with a mystifying presentation by Improvd. The dramatic collection was a crowd-pleaser with its dark elegance and theatrical choreography.
We then left Lincoln Center and headed down to The Lambs Club for the relaunch of Models by Michael Gross. With Nicole Miller, Carmen Dell’Orefice, and Robert DiMauro on the guest list, we partied as if the re-rerelease was its first. After picking up my copy of Models, I bumped into the controversial author himself.
“Ohhh, you’re young! A newbie in this industry,” Michael Gross cooed, “They’re going to chew you up and spit you out in a heartbeat!”
"Don't say that!" I replied defensively.
“Oh, no, babe. I know for a fact. Because in my day, I would have been one of those who would have done that!”
Taking Michael’s advice to heart, I switched gears and preceded downtown for the Holy Ghost! Fashion Week Party at the Tribeca Grand Hotel. Daniel Franzese was loitering out front with friends, discussing his new role in Jersey Shoresical, a musical poking fun at the reality show. Inside, fans danced wildly as they were instructed to hold on… and hold tight.
Post by Amanda LaMela
I have come to terms with my restlessness: Sleep has never been a simple task for me. But leave it to the models to make everything look easy…
Kaelen’s SS12 collection favored draped rompers and oversized button downs in crinkled cotton and silk crepe de chine. Nocturnal wood nymphs in faded stripes and creamy hues remotely cured insomnia from their dreamy paradise.
Post by Amanda LaMela
Son Jung Wan’s SS12 collection opened like the early stages of champagne intoxication – hazy, comfortable and subtly sweet.
Gauzy, organic fabrics in a light golden color palette teetered between soft and structured silhouettes. Eventually introducing deeper tones of blue and charcoal, Son Jung Wan concluded her show like a sparkling, balanced Premier Cru.
Post by Amanda LaMela
District L is Amanda LaMela & Nicolas Sera-Leyva
