District L

In a smoky, green-lit room inside Milk Studios, ROCHAMBEAU’s dark pagan-like obscurity returned. Inspired by the “folklore surrounding water throughout history,” Sunday’s set resembled what the southern coast of Iceland might look like in night vision goggles. With their post-prophetic perception, designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper channeled Nordic beaches blackened by volcanic ash.

Water and its historic symbolism of “afterlife, departed spirits, and the mysteries of death” was nurtured by a murky color palette. Models in layered blazers, harem pants, and diagonal shorts swayed to a pulsing beat atop narrow tree stumps – melancholic remnants of last season’s levitating foundation.

Post by Amanda LaMela

The designers behind ROCHAMBEAU continue to uproot traditional notions of menswear, both figuratively and literally. Set with levitating trees over a ground of mulch, the Box at Lincoln Center exuded a dark, pagan-like obscurity. The shadows of this prophetic presentation established a suitable backdrop for the bad boys of last season to return.

Now older and wiser, the ROCHAMBEAU boys realize that a blissful homecoming is no longer within reach. Dressed in a casually deconstructed blazer, yet burdened with insight, this strong silent type wonders if he’ll ever recapture the happiness that once came with unawareness. Provoking invitees with leather finger-gloves and trimmed slouch hats, ROCHAMBEAU designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper delivered another high-impact collection for their ardently entrenched fans and followers.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Last season, ROCHAMBEAU introduced us to sun-kissed, Nordic men with good intentions. Carefully balancing structure with staunch, the ROCHAMBEAUs of AW11 impressed guests with well-edited depth.

And it seems that the label’s tune of “taking chances” continues, as ROCHAMBEAU moves away from the silent stability of last season and into something tougher, darker, more dangerous.

I suppose the mothers of Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper were too fond of the boys from last season. Maybe AW11 texted too much, asking where they were and what they were doing and who they were with and if it would be okay if they came along too. Perhaps it was the last straw when AW11 stopped by with chicken soup and wide eyes when the design duo lied and said they were too sick to go out.

Whatever the case may be, ROCHAMBEAU’s new boy has a motorcycle, a few tattoos he doesn’t remember getting, and a penchant for breaking laws. But this isn’t superficial suburban “anguish” – No, these SS12 boys lived on Avenue C in the 90s and learned a few things from their short stint in Ossining.

Chandler and Cooper have yet again pushed the envelope, instilling a memorable concept and hooking fans for another season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

This New York Fashion Week began like all of its predecessors – one day early. On Wednesday, February 8, District L welcomed in Fashion Week at 320 Studios with Mimi Plange and her collection of “Scarred Perfection.” Inspired by African tribal traditions of body modification, Plange’s presentation effectively emulated deliberate repetition with ruffles, pleats, and embellishments.

Thursday was the first official day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and District L kicked it off backstage with Irina Shabayeva. Before viewing her fiery-hot-icy-cool runway collection, we took a moment to snap photos of the pre-show preparation. After the show, we chatted with Irina and discussed the basis of her inspiration – life, death, rebirth, and evolution.

The following afternoon, Norman Ambrose presented his flawless answer to society’s unfortunate lack of innovative elegance. With feather details and glittering gowns, his 1970s vibe of decadence was the perfect setting to recapture irreverent sophistication.

Later that evening, Nick and I headed over to experience Sally LaPointe’s picture-perfect Polaroid-inspired runway collection. While we were Chelsea-bound, Madisen ventured to The Standard to view NOMIA in all of its sensually streamlined glory. We then met up to spend our Friday evening at Bedlam for NOMIA’s afterparty – drinking, dishing, and surveying the evening’s gaggle of PYTs.

Unfortunately, the sun returned a bit quicker than expected. When I realized morning had become a reality, I grabbed Saturday’s gear and rushed up to Lincoln Center for General Idea. The 9:00am runway show was inspired by the letter-M; but more specifically, “mountains” and “military.” Watching each male model emerge from the runway tent made my headache melt away like in an ice cap South America.

By 10:30, I wandered over to The Box for Binetti’s model presentation. The collection exhibited an effortless air of exotic affluence. I lingered in this luxury fashion safari for awhile before walking right into a Betsey Johnson interview. As I watched her animated facial expressions, I dialed up my P.I.C., “Get the hell over here. You’re missing EVERYTHING.”

After Nick arrived uptown, we decided it was time for brunch. We green-eggs-and-glammed it at a nearby haunt while assembling our coverage from the morning prior. Once we enjoyed a solid hour of bottomless champagne, we sauntered back to Lincoln Center for Vivienne Tam and Mik Cire.

While we remained uptown, Madisen journeyed over to Philip-Lorca diCorcia’s book signing for Eleven. The event, which was held at Chelsea’s David Zwirner Gallery, showcased diCorcia’s photographic portfolio with W magazine.

Around 6:30pm, Nick and I entered Maisonette 1977’s dream sequence. Jane Ibrahim’s lucid visions transported us to an unpredictable, volatile urban-utopia. After deciding that Maisonette 1977 was a top choice for FW11, we closed the day of shows with Toni Francesc. That night, we celebrated Mik Cire’s fantastic collection at his Hudson Terrace after-party.

Sunday morning began as Sunday mornings usually do – brunch. When we finished our bellinis, we stopped at OAK for a pre-show purchase and then trekked back over to The Standard. After killing some time on the 18^th floor, we headed downstairs to enjoy Bensoni’s Gothic Wedding Vignette.

We finished off the weekend with Zang Toi’s Sunday night show in The Studio, which was an undeniable crowd pleaser. As the cheering faded, we headed back downtown to prepare for the last four days of the season.

My Monday line-up started with MARTINmartin at the Audi forum, while Madisen and Rachel made their way up to Guishem. After enjoying a collection of androgyny, destruction, and reincarnation, I rushed over to Studio 580 for friend-and-favorite, Lois Eastlund.

Tuesday morning began bright-and-early with a presentation by Trias. As soon as we finished adoring Joaquin Trias and his personal definition of luxury, we traveled back downtown to The Park for delicious cocktails and bites. Such nourishment led our revitalized bodies to the Chelsea Art Museum for Nico Lena’s debut event. The event’s reception brought quite the crowd – and yes, that crowd did include Dustin Diamond.

Our second stop of the evening was Lincoln Center. After enjoying a glass of Kim Crawford, we made our way into Tibi’s 90s-infused collection.

Day 7 of Fashion Week began with a frantic search for someone to apply my false lashes. Once I achieved such a task, we headed over to The Standard for the strong and silent boys of Rochambeau. About 50 photographs later, we ventured up to Allegri’s cocktail party and presentation in Lincoln Center’s courtyard. We enjoyed the perfect combination of models with mannequins while sipping wine and chatting with emerging designer, Loris Diran.

Post-chat, we darted backstage to get an inside peak at Anna Sui. As models were preparing for their walk of folklore and fantasy, we snapped a few photos of the hectic scene. Of course, I had to bolt before Sui even started to make it to Milk Studios in time for The Blonds. The flaxen-haired duo presented an unforgettable drag-and-dragon show, daring us to even try to find another show more outrageous. While we watched two dancing dragons galloping down the runway, Rachel and Madisen attended Odd Molly’s model presentation in The Box at Lincoln Center.

We ended our Fashion Week follies at the Three Year Anniversary of Pinstripe Magazine on 93 Grand. As we toasted our glasses of Star Vodka in the Buckler Store basement, we mused, “So, what do we have in mind for next season…?”

Post by Amanda LaMela

Emerging menswear line ROCHAMBEAU has risen through the esteemed ranks rather quickly over the past few years since the fateful meeting of trio Michael Venker, Laurence Chandler, and Joshua Cooper back in 2007. With features in SURFACE, Nylon, and Gotham Magazines, among other accolades, under their belt, the label's mantra of "taking chances" certainly seems to have paid off. Having done our homework, it was with great enthusiasm that we returned to the Highline Room at The Standard for the ROCHAMBEAU A/W 2011 presentation.

The paradox surrounding the amount of effort required in order to appear effortless is a constant in the fashion industry, and a stumbling block for many designers - how do you craft a look that maintains the integrity of inspiration without coming across as affected? It's always a sign of true skill when you chance upon one of those collections where the inspiration is evident yet open to the kind of interpretation that gives pause - ROCHAMBEAU, for us, is one of these.

It's not easy juxtaposing deconstruction with structure. However, the blend of the two found throughout yesterday's presentation - most notably in a rich red jersey wrap top paired with a structured grey blazer and black sport pants, and a paneled twill overcoat in navy with a rigid black button up and drop-crotch jersey pants - we thought highly successful.

There was an air of mystery about the looks as well, in that all together they very much formed a collection but we knew very little about the man inhabiting them. Sunburnt, nomadic, and silent, there is still an ease about ROCHAMBEAU's boy conveyed by the line's well-edited deconstruction. The pieces themselves communicate volumes without divulging too many specifics - no easy feat, yet one that the designers achieved effortlessly.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Day 7 of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week began with an urgent conundrum: How would I possibly manage to find a makeup artist to apply my false lashes before today’s shows!? With every cosmetic professional long reserved for the week, I eventually convinced the receptionist at Wonderland that her abilities would suit my immediate needs. Minutes after the glue dried, we ran a half-block over to The Standard for the Rochambeau menswear presentation.

After feasting our eyes on the sun-kissed boys of Rochambeau, we made our way up to Allegri’s cocktail party and presentation. Arriving early, we checked our coats and headed over to the Star Lounge to enjoy a few glasses of champagne and watch the Milly by Michelle Smith runway show.

Allegri, the Italian outerwear brand, celebrated 40 years and made its New York debut in Lincoln Center’s courtyard. We arrived to the event around 4:30 and perused the spectacular outdoor presentation, complete with models, mannequins, and a suspended umbrella display.

The courtyard filled with sociable industry professionals enjoying wine and conversation. We met up and chatted with designer, Loris Diran. Since we last saw him at his boutique party, he’s been keeping very busy. Recently, he won the Rising Star Award for menswear.

After enjoying Allegri’s cocktail celebration, we headed backstage for Anna Sui. While we got a chance to snap a few photos of the behind-the-scenes hustle, we had to flee the site pre-show to make it to Milk Studios for The Blonds.

The pre-show scene for The Blonds was as outrageous as one might expect. Head-turners like Amanda Lepore were in the front-row, entertaining and posing for the cameras. Once the lights dimmed and the music started, the audience was treated to dancing dragons, a drag queen video montage, and a glittering Far East runway collection. [Read here for more coverage of The Blonds]

Post by Amanda LaMela