District L

The Monday before last was a show-hopping debacle – unavoidably misty, yet bitter and cold. It was the kind of weather that sits heavy on the hair and could stop an attendee in her tracks. But waterproof mascara, taxi cabs, and 30-minute blow-dry salons are created for a reason; this was not a collection I was about to miss.

Daniella Kallmeyer held her presentation at Parlor New York, the members-only restaurant and lounge in Soho. The walls were decorated with images of scandalous old Hollywood nightlife, setting the tone for her inspiration. Leather-clad models in sheer separates positioned themselves around the first room, eyes fixed in unwavering, sultry stares.

We grabbed a glass of champagne at the baroque-style bar and walked to the next section. Continuing Kallmeyer’s twisted-classic ambiance, the second room displayed long, angular shapes in muted gem tones. Body-skimming silhouettes blurred the lines between feminine and dangerous - old glamour and new school pleasures.

Post by Amanda LaMela

What would a Custo Barcelona show be without seat-rattling bass, mixed furs, and geometric prints? Titled “The Beauty and The Beast,” the Dalmau brothers combined a “bionic” sporty aesthetic with feminine inspiration to represent “The Beauty.” Their iconic prints came in the form of tribal and Nordic inspiration, symbolizing “The Beast.”

Contrast furs and mixed-media mini-dresses charged down the runway to Happiness by Sam Sparro (upbeat beauty!) and Flutes by Hot Chip (moody beast!) ..Isn’t it comforting to see a collection as capricious as we are?

Post by Amanda LaMela

The demanding instrumental intro of Led Zeppelin’s Kashmir opened the Katya Leonovich show. Wearing Lucite geometric wedges, models charged down the runway in the designer's trademark prints. This season’s hand-painted garments came in swirls of cobalt, Egyptian blue and frosted moss, cinched with python corset belts and draped in faux fur. Achieving a balance of mystical and edgy, Leonovich combined leather corsets with dreamy watercolors, Zeppelin with Electroclash.

In summation, it's the kind of collection that makes you want to strut down the Bowery to Felix Da Housecat - Happy Hour.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Smoke billowed out of the freshly hot-boxed Highline Loft for Highland’s F13 Collection. That conspicuous scent permeated the air, leaving one question in everyone’s mind: “How many models got stoned in the making of this presentation?”

A long-haired DJ spun in the back, eating cereal out of the box and drinking a can of PBR. Lava lamps lined the walls, popcorn and pillows were scattered on the floor, and tables held two bongs in front of the tube television. It looked like what the basement of Travis from Clueless might look like – 90s slacker paraphernalia with a hazy disposition.

Then the models filed in, each more ‘Stoner Casual’ than the next. Soft fleece vests over printed layered tees and knit hats were the uniform du jour. In head bands and long johns, this presentation pushed show production limits that have yet to be matched this season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Confession: I’ve been catapulted to action after a particular PR contact mordantly remarked, “Last blog post: Dec. 24…”

I also just Googled “who won super bowl 2013.” Five minutes ago. But that’s not the point.

With Fashion Week just around the corner, one last-minute motivational push, and only a half-hour spent on RSVPs, I am still pretty behind. I’ve decided to get the ball rolling with a preview for Elliott Evan's F/W13 Collection, making his New York Fashion Week debut this Thursday.

Designer Elliott Giffis is a young AAU graduate who has launched his own collection and opened a store – all by the age of 26. This season, he will bring meditative masculinity back to menswear with NEVER FOREVER, a collection that mixes luxury and reality - the uneasiness of knowing that no comfort ever lasts.

Post by Amanda LaMela

In a smoky, green-lit room inside Milk Studios, ROCHAMBEAU’s dark pagan-like obscurity returned. Inspired by the “folklore surrounding water throughout history,” Sunday’s set resembled what the southern coast of Iceland might look like in night vision goggles. With their post-prophetic perception, designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper channeled Nordic beaches blackened by volcanic ash.

Water and its historic symbolism of “afterlife, departed spirits, and the mysteries of death” was nurtured by a murky color palette. Models in layered blazers, harem pants, and diagonal shorts swayed to a pulsing beat atop narrow tree stumps – melancholic remnants of last season’s levitating foundation.

Post by Amanda LaMela

“I really love weapons. I scare boys when I bring them back to my place, because I have so many weapons all over my apartment – and also serial killer books,” designer Heidi Gardner explained during last evening’s unrivaled Amour D’Armour presentation. Blonde, waif-like, and spectacularly twisted, the artist who collects ninja stars and shuriken strikes in her New York apartment is an unexpected vision.

“I just want to make things that can hurt people. No, wait - I guess I mean… defend people,” Heidi Gardner corrected during her showing at Toshi’s Penthouse. After surviving the mayhem of Hurricane Katrina, the designer found a void she wanted to fill in jewelry – a dual purpose of protection.

Her presentation titled, “Tribal Sacrifice. Rock & Roll. Offal.,” included live S&M scenes, a hungry-looking rocker couple, and the label’s name written in powder on a mirror. A display of piercing rings and adorned leather headbands surrounded a writhing model that was loosely bound to the ceiling. Downstairs, guests could find a tray of severed goat parts while enjoying the energetic live band.

In the red glow of Toshi’s Penthouse, Heidi Gardner ushers in a new fashion regime, restoring the challenge, inimitability, and theatrics that this industry has been craving for seasons. '

Post by Amanda LaMela

You are a clever one, Mr. Toni Maticevski, but did you really think you'd slip under the DL radar?

Maticevski made a strong first impression one muggy Sunday back in September 2009. At the time, we were running back and forth so frantically from off-site shows to Bryant Park, that we almost didn’t make our last stop to the Altman Building. Fortunately, our sixth sense is style, so a subtle force lured us back to 18^th street and into our first Toni Maticevski show.

Three years later, I found myself seated at Fashion Palette, a showcase for Australian designers, only to discover that our beloved and long-lost Maticevski is back. Returning with strong shoulders, polished lines, and rich fabrics, Toni marked his arrival as the closing designer for Wednesday’s event.

Post by Amanda LaMela

It’s been a while since DL has experienced any textual action, but with just a couple days until New York Fashion Week, I’d say it is time for our post-summer revival. The seasonal boat parties have docked and monochromatic-black has returned to the front our closets.

We aren’t the only ones revisiting our origins. Take a flip through any Bible-sized September issue and you’ll see authentic homecomings – Louis Vuitton returns to its subtly monogrammed traveler looks, while Dolce & Gabbana takes it back to the streets of Sicily.

It is time for us to buckle down, button up, and zip into what feels like a momentous season. We have a lot planned for the upcoming Fashion Week – and we promise these fast-typing, manicured fingers will deliver.

Post by Amanda LaMela

It’s not possible to attend every New York Fashion Week event, but we manage to get by with a little help from our friends.

I met photographer, Andrés Herrera Valenzuela, at Michael Gross’ re-launch of Models last September during the SS/12 runway shows. Following up after the evening’s Fashion Week parties, I delightfully discovered that my new friend had true talent. Not one to pass up an apt advantage, I called on Andrés this season to take over for Nautica at the Empire Hotel.

With the ability to capture this classic, Sperry-donning collection from a fresh and unexpected angle, Andrés deserved more than just the photographer byline.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Photos by Andrés Herrera Valenzuela