District L

I never fell victim to ‘Graduation Goggles,’ the assumption that when graduation approaches, and subsequently passes, the only memories that remain are rose-tinted, favorable recollections. I never sat through Pomp and Circumstance with mascara running down my face and I never turned the tassel without feeling anything other than liberation – in fact, I think I spent most of my high school graduation ceremony just hoping the mortarboard wouldn’t leave a mark on my forehead.

I would not choose to relive the years leading up to that Polyester-coated commencement, but for the Dsquared2 twins, reunion is just a season away. And, why not? As it seems that Dean and Dan Caten had a much more glamorous high school experience, cheerfully cloaked in Kelly green croco and mink rugby-striped tops.

Their runway sign announced “Class of 2013” and two disco balls were prepped for a very Dsquared2 “prom.” Toggled coats and crisp button-downs carried over from the collection prior, but I’ll be surprised if the Caten brothers maintain this unusually polished disposition for a third season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

It would be impossible to overlook the common denominator on the New York runways last week. From fox to faux, Cennamo to COTA, fur frequented the shows more than any other trend. It surfaced on Day 1 at Ailey Studios for Danilo Gabrielli in the form of sophisticated stoles and trims. Son Jung Wan took a more grandiose approach during her Saturday morning showing, with emerald-toned raccoon jackets and fox-trim toppers.  The following day, Mathieu Mirano received a warm introduction for his red and black fur jackets at the Box in Lincoln Center.

Norisol Ferrari’s presentation on Valentine’s Day morning boasted lush mink jackets, fox-trim trenches, and sable-lined vests. Later that afternoon, I headed over to the Rubin Museum to catch the Josie Natori collection. Over champagne, Natori’s Mongolian boleros and fox-topped gowns were love at first sight, as they dramatically made their way down the museum’s spiraling staircase to an elegant piano soundtrack.

That following day, at the emotionally-charged Joanna Mastroianni showing, marabou magnificently masqueraded as fur, just as it had in days prior. A few hours later, NOMIA added a pelted touch to her streamlined urbanite collection. Raccoon resurfaced at our final show, The Blonds, adding a glittering finish to our sumptuous season.

Rafael Cennamo

Christian Cota

Danilo Gabrielli

Mathieu Mirano

Josie Natori

Son Jung Wan

NOMIA

Post by Amanda LaMela

The designers behind ROCHAMBEAU continue to uproot traditional notions of menswear, both figuratively and literally. Set with levitating trees over a ground of mulch, the Box at Lincoln Center exuded a dark, pagan-like obscurity. The shadows of this prophetic presentation established a suitable backdrop for the bad boys of last season to return.

Now older and wiser, the ROCHAMBEAU boys realize that a blissful homecoming is no longer within reach. Dressed in a casually deconstructed blazer, yet burdened with insight, this strong silent type wonders if he’ll ever recapture the happiness that once came with unawareness. Provoking invitees with leather finger-gloves and trimmed slouch hats, ROCHAMBEAU designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper delivered another high-impact collection for their ardently entrenched fans and followers.

Post by Amanda LaMela

With a hectic Fashion Week schedule, sometimes the decision to attend one show over another can be abrupt – if the designers are unfamiliar, it may simply come down to the more convenient venue location. In the case of emerging designer Danilo Gabrielli, it was the promise of an electric violinist and open bar that got me in the door. But it will be Gabrielli’s elegant aesthetic and flawless execution that will reel me in again next season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

It’s the Tuesday night before New York Fashion Week… and I’m starting to panic. I’m not at all organized for the week ahead, my wardrobe is in complete disarray, and I desperately need to arrange for a manicure. But to avoid any further catastrophes, I finally sat down to confirm each and every RSVP.

Helios&Luna is our first show tomorrow, unofficially kicking off Fashion Week for us at 11:00am. Inspired by the paintings of British conceptual modern artist Martin Creed, Helios&Luna combine his bold strokes and robust shades with the brand’s aim of versatility.

So here’s to finding our last little ounce of inner balance at our first show of the season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

'Boho-techno,' a phrase one would probably use to describe Lemonade or Tanlines, has now become an emerging concept on Paris runways.

Damir Doma’s newest collection of wooden necklaces and chunky fur vests, titled "Bohemian Techno," still manages to reveal his futuristic leanings with some serious asymmetry. Like a cyborg with a fine arts degree and an affinity for unconventional travel, Doma’s Pre-Fall 2012 collection advances the trend of polished maverick.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Despite a crowd of angry protesters, guests filed in for yesterday’s relocated GULI show at Cipriani 42nd Street. Little did the activists know, this forced location change was a perfect fit for GULI’s rich SS12 showing. Opulent and romantically pharaohic, Gulnara’s spellbinding collection drew influences from Middle Eastern and Asian cultures.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Last season, ROCHAMBEAU introduced us to sun-kissed, Nordic men with good intentions. Carefully balancing structure with staunch, the ROCHAMBEAUs of AW11 impressed guests with well-edited depth.

And it seems that the label’s tune of “taking chances” continues, as ROCHAMBEAU moves away from the silent stability of last season and into something tougher, darker, more dangerous.

I suppose the mothers of Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper were too fond of the boys from last season. Maybe AW11 texted too much, asking where they were and what they were doing and who they were with and if it would be okay if they came along too. Perhaps it was the last straw when AW11 stopped by with chicken soup and wide eyes when the design duo lied and said they were too sick to go out.

Whatever the case may be, ROCHAMBEAU’s new boy has a motorcycle, a few tattoos he doesn’t remember getting, and a penchant for breaking laws. But this isn’t superficial suburban “anguish” – No, these SS12 boys lived on Avenue C in the 90s and learned a few things from their short stint in Ossining.

Chandler and Cooper have yet again pushed the envelope, instilling a memorable concept and hooking fans for another season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Lela Rose knows that this city is rarely quiet, so on the 10-year anniversary of September 11th, she prefaced her AM show with a moment of non-silence. The Studio darkened and John Lennon’s “Imagine” resonated through the sound system as hands eased, cameras lowered, and what seemed like a universal spinal chill passed through the room.

Once the desired reflection was achieved, the lights lifted to invite an up-tempo beat and a defiantly positive collection, as if to reassert to the world, “There is no stopping New York.”

Crisp, yet feminine separates in colorful prints were paired together in a playful game of mix-and-match. Classic silhouettes bounced in breezy chiffons and flirted with coy cutouts. The show closed with “Go Outside” by Cults – an uplifting ending that infused the right touch of optimism for spring.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Tomorrow is the official start of New York Fashion Week and our schedules are already packed with preparatory tasks. Between organizing RSVPs, booking hair appointments, and attempting to minimize travel times between shows, it's hard to find a moment to rest. And when our bodies finally find a second of intermission, our minds are still busy contemplating which songs from Era Extraña or Portamento will be playing on this season's runways.

So, while tomorrow's schedule will be comparatively light to the rest of the week, there are decisions to be made and champagnes to be consumed between the hours of 6:00 and 11:00pm: Fashion's Night Out.

Post by Amanda LaMela