District L

When people tell me to "relax," I tend to have the opposite reaction. It usually starts with your snide smirk and "pump-the-breaks" hand gesture. And it always ends with me spending the next four days contemplating how to kill you and make it look like an accident.

The thing is, my personality is completely incapable of relaxation. Maybe it was the hours of intensive ballet instruction during my formative years or the footwear that always keeps me on my toes. Whatever the case may be, I'm usually wound tighter than a pair of Jeffrey Campbell combats, constantly hovering on the matrix between unrivaled gusto and extreme obstinacy - and I hate when someone suggests that I behave differently.

That being said, relaxation was ever-so-gently implied this season, again and again. This trend of "urban ease," although somewhat of an oxymoron, was communicated in a way that was refreshingly comprehensible and not at all condescending. Soft layers in calm palettes were trimly draped for a casual-but-polished look. The runway soundtracks were comfortably upbeat with songs like "Go Outside" by Cults at the top of the list.

Geometric shapes, cutouts, and varying hemlines offered enough movement and interest to satisfy my restlessness - proof that next season's trends extend beyond provincial complacency.

So...reeee-lax. It's all going to be okay.

Sergio Davila

Nomia

Kaelen

Son Jung Wan

Samantha Pleet

Daryl K.

Post by Amanda LaMela

On Day 4 of NYFW, I headed downtown to Gavin Brown for Daryl K, the Dublin-born/Manhattan-rooted designer celebrating 20 years in New York’s fashion industry. Opening with drums and Kusmi Tea, the exclusive showing attracted a stylish crowd of devotees decked out in the label’s sleek slashneck throws and chic leather leggings – despite the unseasonable heat.

With runway sounds exclusively percussive, models matched their aural surroundings in looks that reflected both minimalism and spontaneity. Splash prints were paired with neutral colorblocking, black shift dresses, and sheer overlays. In breezy silhouettes that were both relaxed and metropolitan, models could not fight the urge to dance. Arabesques and pas jetés exhibited the movement and spirit of Daryl K’s anniversary show, an undisputed Sunday success.

After a pedicure, a cocktail, and a good night’s rest, I am finally ready to evaluate this first half of New York Fashion Week, in all of its crazy, hazy fervor.

We eased into the week on Thursday, with Douglas Hannant, The Vandelles, and the newly-discovered REALM. Champagne was consumed, dancing ensued, and the night ended with a little white lie.

But Friday was a fresh start – and my first stop was the Metropolitan Pavilion for IvanaHelsinki. After a painted procession of feather motifs and tribal patterns, I met up with Nick for Sally LaPointe’s heart-stopping runway show at 548 W 22^nd street.

As expected, we left LaPointe feeling mentally stimulated and pleasantly mystified – so the cab ride to Exit Art served as the perfect break for inspirational debate. Once we arrived to Parke & Ronen, our churning little minds were momentarily halted by a parade of men wearing -- uh… what were they wearing? Oh, now I remember…

With one flick of a hand fan and a speedy cab ride, we pulled into Lincoln Center for Falguni and Shane Peacock. Experimental combinations of patterns, adornments, and mixed-media hoisted this design couple to the top of our list. The show closed with singer-songwriter, Porcelain Black, in a bold stomp down the runway in mixed-mesh and a gun-embellished bodysuit.

Saturday started with an express blowdry at Butterfly Studio Salon. As soon as the stylist boosted me out of my early-morning cocoon, I fluttered out of Butterfly and right back to Lincoln Center for Son Jung Wan’s intoxicating collection.

Giddy off the first show, I headed back downtown for Samantha Pleet. Drawing in a vibrant crowd, Pleet indulged guests with peek-a-boo cutouts and feminine silhouettes in muted sherbets and golds. Then, just a few blocks over, Kaelen invited us to a forest fairy dreamland at Drive In Studios.

I narrowly made it back to Lincoln Center in time for a model presentation by Farah Angsana. With flounces, silk rope belts, and rising waist-lines, Angsana decorated the Box with her modern versions of Aphrodite.

Post-Farah, we took a break at the Hudson Hotel to organize our notes, update photos, and grab a drink – after all, we hadn’t brunched all day. After recharging – ourselves, as well as our phones – we headed down to Good Units for the Eva Minge runway show.

Venexiana was our last show of the day. Juxtaposing her elaborate collection with the punkish sounds of The Dickies, Kati Stern brought Day 3 to a strong and invigorating close.

Sunday morning started early with an Americana-inspired collection by Katya Leonovich, followed by optimistic motivation by Lela Rose. The afternoon then quickly approached, bringing Daryl K’s drippy floral prints, with live drummers and dancing models.

After a quick break, I made it back to the tents for GUiSHEM’s sexy and assertive model presentation. With angular motifs, color blocking, and sharp necklines, designer Guillermo Jop challenged the sweetness of spring.

Custo Barcelona was my last show of the day. Guests packed in, 3D-glasses in hand, awaiting Custo’s Mirame looks. Icons of Summer by Cold Cave vibrated through The Stage, as Custo presented his technologic prints for SS12.

And now that Monday is almost complete, it’s time to stock up on enough Starbucks and business cards for part two!

Post by Amanda LaMela