District L

"I have to reflect the times, and this really is my mood"- Stefano Pilati on his A/W 2009 RTW collection for Yves Saint-Laurent.

Gray flannels, black leather, and sleeve-emphatic white shirts: the creed of Pilati for YSL. In these times of uncertainty, we need something to remain reassuredly constant and Stefano is not one to take that away from us. These YSL staples made their stately way down yesterday's runway in Paris, reminding us that yes, in the end fashion will never abandon you.

Black leather coats and classic YSL white shirting were the fulcrum off of which much of the show operated. Yes, we know that the belted trench is a staple for fall. However this season in particular it seems to have arrived en force; the single breasted, belted leather jacket was incorporated into 3 of the shows first 4 looks.The white shirts, complete with typically diaphanous sleeves, were paired with beautifully tailored high-waisted skirts in blacks, greys, and pinstripes (making a comeback in womenswear? Vivienne Westwood featured an oversized pinstripe blazer in her collection, with Pilati including the same for YSL. Pinstripes, which have been getting narrower over the past couple years seem to growing again. As long as they aren't executed in that mafioso chalk white).

The show was monochromatic, but thats what we want from YSL. Textures and tailoring were the cornerstone of the collection, and strong silhouettes rounded everything out into a reassuringly chic, completely on trend, and just absolutely wearable collection.

Photos from Style.com

So where was Carla Bruni during Givenchy, Chanel, and Dior?

Flashing her diamante at a state dinner in Mexico, thats where. But not after spending the weekend in a $5,000 a night beachfront villa in that country with hubby Nicolas Sarkozy, much to the chagrin of the recession-striken French populous.

So not only did the première famille de france stick it to sixty million of their angriest citizens, they stuck it to...Givenchy, Dior, and Chanel. Way to go, Bruni and Sarko.

“In fashion, in a way, everything is permitted,” - Silvia Fendi

"The Chic Must Go On" was the theme of the celebratory dinner party held in Paris last night by The Daily and Jason Wu at La Paiva. Wu has a lot to celebrate lately, and why not do it on the Champs-Élysées?

Guy Laroche seemed to have joined Karl Lagerfeld's futuristic model invasion. Designer Marcel Marongiu, like many others this season, envisioned a winter of capes and tiered dresses. Yet instead of the ultra-feminized, relaxed versions that were so prevalent in New York, Marcel provided us with full leather get-ups, severe buns, and square-pieced gowns.

“It’s part homage to YSL,” -Giambattista Valli, FWD

“A woman's dress should be like a barbed- wire fence: serving its purpose without obstructing the view.”
Sophia Loren

10:00 am STELLA MCCARTNEY
Carreau du Temple - 3 rue Dupetit Thouars - Paris 3e

11:00 am BARBARA BUI
Couvent des Cordeliers - 15 rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e

12:00 pm LÉONARD
Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Le Nôtre

1:00 pm GUY LAROCHE
Le Carrousel du Louvre - Salle Soufflot

2:00 pm GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Espace Ephémère Tuileries - Jardin des Tuileries – Paris 1er

3:00 pm ZUCCA
Les Beaux-Arts de Paris - salle Mélpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e

4:30 pm VIKTOR & ROLF
Halle Freyssinet - 55 boulevard Vincent Auriol - Paris 13e

5:30 pm MANISH ARORA
Garage Turenne - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e

7:00 pm YVES SAINT LAURENT
Palais de Tokyo - 13 avenue du Président Wilson - Paris 16e

Karl Lagerfeld's superstar status in the fashion industry translates easily into his clothing; like the elite soldiers of his supreme army, Lagerfeld models strut down the runway like towering, broad shouldered titans.

Exaggerated panelling on the shoulder in fur, bead, and sundry metallic trims, fur upholstered motorcycle helmets with a nouveau-Soviet tinge, black alligator shifts, businesslike, military-esque mini capes, and stunningly dead-on sartorial technique really made for an intimidatingly chic showing this season.

It was obvious, however, that a little bit of Lagerfeld's work on the Fendi line had carried over into his own- the line had the same techno-industrial feel of Fendi with the occasional fine dusting of metal on otherwise solid fabrics, along with a bit of forties utilitarian a'la Miuccia with the boxy cuts and broad pleats.

Karl, you can invade our country any time you like. Take no prisoners.

Check us out, and the other Street Pulse candids at Soma Magazine in the Street Pulse section.