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Fashion with a vengeance since 2009. Today is Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Posts for February 2011

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Into The Woods - R+R A/W 2011


Feb28

It was a laissez-faire affair last evening at Lu Magnus gallery. Arriving at the Lower East Side space for New Fashion: Works by 6 Emerging Designers, we were instantly reminded of another favorite designer's presentation, Ann Yee Collection back in S/S 2011 at ION Studios.

If you'll recall, at Yee's showing, models engaged attendees, chatting, mingling, and lounging lackadaisically in oversized shades. The mood at Lu Magnus was just as bright and easy, with models clustered cheerfully together sporting the designs of emerging talents like Guy French, Steve Zerbe, and of course our personal favorite R+R - the clever and subtle collaboration between designers Rebecca Formichella and Rita Watson.

Among those showing that evening, R+R was definitely a stand-out - their soft, feminine forms were lent a hard edge by way of clever texture play and asymmetry. Inspired by tales of childhood and nature, each look possessed at once both an innocence and a darkness - a youthful playfulness pitted against a deep, impenetrable wood.

The skilled young duo, recently graduated from SCAD, petitioned to work together on their final senior project, rather than pursue independent final collections. Their dedication to collaboration speaks to their maturity as designers and to their continued success. It's reassuring to see talent that have such a defined point of view, and a refined aesthetic, so early on in their careers.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


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R+R at Lu Magnus


Feb26

Contunued support for emerging design talent is a year-round affair for us - as we've said in the past, "If you’re awesome at what you do and nice to your friends, they will oftentimes turn into your best publicists."

So tonight District L will be in delighted attendance at the Lower East Side's Lu Magnus Gallery for New Fashion: Works by 6 Emerging Designers. Among the roster are labels Afterlife, Guy French, Rrose Sélavy, The Sway, and Stephen Zerbe, but most importantly for us is R+R, the line by personal favorite and friend Rebecca Formichella and partner Rita Watson.

We first covered uber-talented SCAD grad Rebecca back in December, taking a close look at her then most recent line.. We were impressed by their clever balance of romance and audacity, lending a stark austerity to otherwise soft and feminine shapes.

So if you're all bereft that NYFW is over, fear not - there's still plenty of fashionizing to be done and tonight at Lu Magnus (55 Hester between Ludlow and Essex) is the place to do it.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


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Old Photographs


Feb26


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Video: Allegri Fashion Week Event


Feb23

On the seventh day of Fashion Week, we headed over to Lincoln Center to celebrate 40 years of Allegri with a cocktail party, display, and model presentation. Under an artful arrangement of umbrellas, Allegri injected their Italian heritage into a memorable event for guests and industry insiders. Check out the video recap they sent us below:


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NYFW A/W 2011 - District L's Top 5 Collections


Feb22

In typical District L style, we'd perhaps open this post with a clever paragraph wherein we reminisce fondly about last week - what with all the rushing too and fro between venues, furious, finger-callusing live-tweeting, and countless moments of anticipation as the plastic was peeled back from the runway time and time again. We might even throw in an alcohol-related pun, hurl a barb at the sucky realities of returning to the daily grind, and spit some vitriol about people on the subway.

But the fact of the matter is that it's 10 PM on a Tuesday and we'd rather just jump straight to the LaPointe (sorry, had to) - here are our top 5 picks for best collections from NYFW A/W 2011:

 

1. Sally LaPointe

This one should come as no surprise - ever since attending the plucky designer's debut show last September, we've been staunch supporters of LaPointe's dark, alien aesthetic that resonates as simultaneously precise and effortless. Did her Fall collection climb straight out of the primordial ooze of a Roland Flexner print? Or did it reverse sublimate from thin air to monolithic vibrancy?

 

2. Bensoni

Gothic wedding vignette? How rad was that? The duo behind Bensoni is all about balance, taking inspiration from the past yet tempering it with forward thinking. Needless to say, they didn't disappoint for Fall. There was a hefty dose of 90's gloom and doom in their presentation this season, but taken to the next level with an infusion of minute detail and texture play that has become a contemporary design mainstay.

 

3. Mik Cire

Mik Cire's Eric Kim is an accomplished design professional, and his collection this season made that fact more evident than ever. Last Spring, Kim gave us slouchy asymmetricality in linen and jersey; this Fall, he presented crisp, sharp tailoring in leather and gabardine. A quality that we value most in a designer is something Kim possesses in spades - the ability to surprise and deliver the unexpected without allowing their trademark sensibilities to become lost.

 

4. Maisonette 1977

Designer Jane Ibrahim stirred something far down inside of us with her evocative Fall line for Maisonette 1977. Taking inspiration from Christopher Nolan's "Inception", she served as the architect behind a towering metropolis rising out of the ether of the subconscious. It was well-edited, modern, and to be quite honest it just had a certain je ne sais quoi about it that drew us in deeper, deeper, and deeper still.

 

5. NOMIA

Like Bensoni, NOMIA was another delightfully intimate affair in the Standard's Highline Room - a perfect setting for an enticing collection of sleek, geometric sportswear that can easily find a home in any closet (or bedroom floor, whatever). We have to give praise to lines like NOMIA that strike rest firmly in that hard-to-hit intersection of concept and accessibility. Like Madisen said, "[The Standard's] attuned blend of nature, urbanity, and notorious exhibitionism matched perfectly with the theme of NOMIA’s runway."

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


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Rock the Runway: Fashion Week Playlist


Feb22

We've helped build your Fashion Week playlist with our compilation below. For District L's top picks, click here.

From the Diane von Furstenberg FW2011 runway playlist:

Cut Copy – Need You Now

 

From the DKNY FW2011 runway playlist:

The Duke Spirit - Everybody's Under Your Spell

 

From the Prabal Gurung FW2011 runway playlist:

Florence and the Machine – Addicted to Love

Zola Jesus – Night

 

From the Calvin Klein FW2011 runway playlist:

James Blake – Klavierwerke

James Blake – The Wilhelm Scream

 

From the Marc by Marc Jacobs FW2011 runway playlist:

Gauntlet Hair - Heave


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Cold Snap - IVANA Helsinki A/W 2011 at Capsule NYC


Feb21

After a leisurely, prosecco and bruschetta fueled brunch at nearby Donatella, District L braved the windy backstreets of Chelsea, arriving at Capsule NYC in rare form. The celebrated tradeshow plays host to a bevy of emerging designers and street-wear labels, however visiting IVANA Helsinki’s booth to get a closer look at their AW 2011 collection was the primary line-item on our agenda that afternoon. Fashion Week may have just finished, but we were far from done with our duties this past weekend.


Pirjo Suhonen, sister to IVANA designer Paola Suhonen, was on hand to fill us in on the details behind this season’s collection. A departure from Spring’s upbeat sailor theme, Paola’s romantic aesthetic and knack for prints (all of them, by the way, custom made for this collection) were still just as present - it was great to see the designer’s darker side for sure.


The inspiration this season was special in that Paola sought to capture not only a mood, but a moment in time - that moment being, in this case, the quickening of the air before a big frost (and being from Finland, she knows a thing or two about the cold). The print motifs were definitely the focus of this collection, exhibited on a series of coquettish yet demure silhouettes - frosty green and fuschia feathers, arranged like rime gathered on a windowpane, stood out as particularly creative uses of pattern.


This season’s lookbook, assembled as a series of postcards in a box sporting the aforementioned feather print, was very inspired as well - how fitting that a line that so successfully encapsulated a single, ephemeral moment in time be presented as a series of moments itself. IVANA Helsinki’s cohesion and creativity across all fronts, branding included, is admirable - needless to say, we can't wait for next Spring.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva


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Fashion Week Overview


Feb21

This New York Fashion Week began like all of its predecessors – one day early. On Wednesday, February 8, District L welcomed in Fashion Week at 320 Studios with Mimi Plange and her collection of “Scarred Perfection.” Inspired by African tribal traditions of body modification, Plange’s presentation effectively emulated deliberate repetition with ruffles, pleats, and embellishments.

Mimi Plange

Thursday was the first official day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and District L kicked it off backstage with Irina Shabayeva. Before viewing her fiery-hot-icy-cool runway collection, we took a moment to snap photos of the pre-show preparation. After the show, we chatted with Irina and discussed the basis of her inspiration – life, death, rebirth, and evolution.

Backstage at Irina Shabayeva

The following afternoon, Norman Ambrose presented his flawless answer to society’s unfortunate lack of innovative elegance. With feather details and glittering gowns, his 1970s vibe of decadence was the perfect setting to recapture irreverent sophistication.

Norman Ambrose

Later that evening, Nick and I headed over to experience Sally LaPointe’s picture-perfect Polaroid-inspired runway collection. While we were Chelsea-bound, Madisen ventured to The Standard to view NOMIA in all of its sensually streamlined glory. We then met up to spend our Friday evening at Bedlam for NOMIA’s afterparty – drinking, dishing, and surveying the evening’s gaggle of PYTs.

Sally LaPointe

Unfortunately, the sun returned a bit quicker than expected. When I realized morning had become a reality, I grabbed Saturday’s gear and rushed up to Lincoln Center for General Idea. The 9:00am runway show was inspired by the letter-M; but more specifically, “mountains” and “military.” Watching each male model emerge from the runway tent made my headache melt away like in an ice cap South America.

General Idea

By 10:30, I wandered over to The Box for Binetti’s model presentation. The collection exhibited an effortless air of exotic affluence. I lingered in this luxury fashion safari for awhile before walking right into a Betsey Johnson interview. As I watched her animated facial expressions, I dialed up my P.I.C., “Get the hell over here. You’re missing EVERYTHING.”

After Nick arrived uptown, we decided it was time for brunch. We green-eggs-and-glammed it at a nearby haunt while assembling our coverage from the morning prior. Once we enjoyed a solid hour of bottomless champagne, we sauntered back to Lincoln Center for Vivienne Tam and Mik Cire.

While we remained uptown, Madisen journeyed over to Philip-Lorca diCorcia’s book signing for Eleven. The event, which was held at Chelsea’s David Zwirner Gallery, showcased diCorcia’s photographic portfolio with W magazine.

Around 6:30pm, Nick and I entered Maisonette 1977’s dream sequence. Jane Ibrahim’s lucid visions transported us to an unpredictable, volatile urban-utopia. After deciding that Maisonette 1977 was a top choice for FW11, we closed the day of shows with Toni Francesc. That night, we celebrated Mik Cire’s fantastic collection at his Hudson Terrace after-party.

Sunday morning began as Sunday mornings usually do – brunch. When we finished our bellinis, we stopped at OAK for a pre-show purchase and then trekked back over to The Standard. After killing some time on the 18th floor, we headed downstairs to enjoy Bensoni’s Gothic Wedding Vignette.

We finished off the weekend with Zang Toi’s Sunday night show in The Studio, which was an undeniable crowd pleaser. As the cheering faded, we headed back downtown to prepare for the last four days of the season.

My Monday line-up started with MARTINmartin at the Audi forum, while Madisen and Rachel made their way up to Guishem. After enjoying a collection of androgyny, destruction, and reincarnation, I rushed over to Studio 580 for friend-and-favorite, Lois Eastlund.

Tuesday morning began bright-and-early with a presentation by Trias. As soon as we finished adoring Joaquin Trias and his personal definition of luxury, we traveled back downtown to The Park for delicious cocktails and bites. Such nourishment led our revitalized bodies to the Chelsea Art Museum for Nico Lena’s debut event. The event’s reception brought quite the crowd – and yes, that crowd did include Dustin Diamond.


Our second stop of the evening was Lincoln Center. After enjoying a glass of Kim Crawford, we made our way into Tibi’s 90s-infused collection.

Day 7 of Fashion Week began with a frantic search for someone to apply my false lashes. Once I achieved such a task, we headed over to The Standard for the strong and silent boys of Rochambeau. About 50 photographs later, we ventured up to Allegri’s cocktail party and presentation in Lincoln Center’s courtyard. We enjoyed the perfect combination of models with mannequins while sipping wine and chatting with emerging designer, Loris Diran.

Post-chat, we darted backstage to get an inside peak at Anna Sui. As models were preparing for their walk of folklore and fantasy, we snapped a few photos of the hectic scene. Of course, I had to bolt before Sui even started to make it to Milk Studios in time for The Blonds. The flaxen-haired duo presented an unforgettable drag-and-dragon show, daring us to even try to find another show more outrageous. While we watched two dancing dragons galloping down the runway, Rachel and Madisen attended Odd Molly’s model presentation in The Box at Lincoln Center.

We ended our Fashion Week follies at the Three Year Anniversary of Pinstripe Magazine on 93 Grand. As we toasted our glasses of Star Vodka in the Buckler Store basement, we mused, “So, what do we have in mind for next season…?”

 

Post by Amanda LaMela


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Tibi's Champagne Supernova


Feb19

After spending Tuesday afternoon lunching at The Park and attending Nico Lena’s debut presentation, we finally made it back up to Lincoln Center for Tibi’s runway showing. Pink beanies, single-button blazers, and arm warmers lent a grungy 90s vibe to Tibi’s signature femininity. Set to a downtown backdrop, the girls of Tibi combined their tough attitude with flowing crimson frocks and soft fur vests. Amy Smilovic’s unexpected arrangement fit perfectly with one of DL’s favorite emerging trends the smell of teen spirit under a warm black hole sun.

Post by Amanda LaMela


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Fashion Week Picks - Runway Jams


Feb19

At the end of every fashion week, when all is said and done and we return to that featurless grey void known as the months of March through September, we can always rest a bit easier knowing that we've come away with three things - an amazing slew of runway reviews, a host of party pics to sift through, and some bangin' new tracks to add to our runway playlists.

When we aren't scribbling down notes, live-tweeting, video recording, or picture taking during shows, we're keeping our ears open for that other oh-so-important facet of show production: Music. So after firing up Shazam on my iPhone and giving everything we tagged a good listen through (and making the subsequent necessary purchases on iTunes), we've each picked out our favorites - check them out below!

 

Nicolas' Pick: The New Division - "Starfield"

Heard During: Mik Cire in The Lincoln Center Studio

Majestic and moving, with mildly washed-out vocals and a fantastic walking beat - perfect for Eric Kim's super-composed, almost romantic Fall collection for the label.

 

Amanda's Pick: Tiga - "Shoes"

Heard During: martinMARTIN at the Audi Forum

An edgy, sexy selection for martinMARTIN's no nonsense runway. Plus, may we add, probably the BEST music video we've ever seen - we're addicted.

 

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

 


Staff

District L is Amanda LaMela & Nicolas Sera-Leyva

 




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