District L

A little while ago we filled you in on designer Lars Stoten and his killer menswear line, Mjölk.

What really captured our attention was the designer's intelligent, simple use of color to build upon an already artfully executed collection. I believe the precise term we used was "colorful, sun-kissed moxie".

To further drive the point home we now have these brilliant posters, available online at the hihellohighfive gallery.

Blown up images of the tags found in all Mjolk garments, these clever little taglines broadcast all the moxie you can handle in bold primaries (and green) - ideally, situated in quadtych above one's headboard.

So Have Hope, My Love - fashion hasn't lost it's sense of humor.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

"Rigor with sensuality" said Donatella of her spring collection, an elektra-fying parade of energetic, Grecian inspired looks that temper the brand's trademark oozing sexiness with a newfound element of aggressive restraint. Donatella has taken her signature diva - flowing mane, fishtail sequin gown and all - and yanked her back from behind into a highly sartorial, well-edited interpretation of the Versace aesthetic.

We've been seeing a lot of designers in Milan this season step out of their comfort zones and take new approaches to their design process. It stands to reason - with the global economy beginning to take a turn for the better, luxury customer bases are more willing to invest in bolder statement pieces. Versace S/S 2011 embraces the bold turquoise and tangerine hues we've been seeing, but contrasted with beautifully tailored high-waisted skirts and cutout jackets in beige and brilliant white. Take a panoramic view of any seaside island village in the Cyclades and you'll find the same palette - white washed concrete houses with orange tiled roofs and churches with turquoise domed naves.

Finally, the Greek key motif seen on many of the looks was a brave move by the designer - some might say it drives the point a little too far home, but we say it's an assertion of the traditional values of the Versace house.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Images from Style.com

This season, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi spun an escapist narrative of a different sort from what we heard in New York. Instead of a woodland romp a la Monique Lhuillier and Toni Francesc, Fendi's S/S 2011 girl harked back to a youth of fiery romance and reckless adventure spent under the mediterranean sun.

A distinctly seventies vibe prevailed throughout the runway, with a luscious palette of turquoise, copper, tangerine, and poppy spread across a lively assortment of tunics, caftans, and maxi-dresses. Full of vitality and luxury, the deconstructed silhouettes were made for windswept adventures by the seaside; however, the tone of the collection was less sex and more nostalgia. Each look communicated an individual story or memory with evocative geometries, prints, and colors.

Nostalgia isn't Lagerfeld's strong suit, however this season he showed us just how delicate and emotional his design process can be. Fine microprints, darned floral motifs, and strong yet humble silhouettes expertly communicate the complicated array of emotions brought about through reminiscence. The work of both designers is apparent in the collection, yet neither overshadows the other.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Images from Style.com

This was the first time District L had attended a Toni Francesc showing, therefore we had little point of reference by way of expectations besides heresay from seasons past. This spring, however, Toni's "Urban Forest" promised to lead us through "an intelligent forest in which we feel closer and more in touch with our natural surroundings".

A lot of designers tend to go down the "let's take a concept, juxtapose it with its' complete opposite, and see what happens" road, but Toni clearly designs with a steady, disciplined hand. The collection, which featured a number of deconstructed looks in this season's raspberry/cream/sage/carbon palette, had an effortless air about it. Even during the latter part of the show, featuring a number of more sculptural evening looks with wooden accents (not faux bois, like, real wood), every dart, buckle, and pleat came across as completely organic and flowed well. The industrial urban element was almost bellicose- mercerized fabrics in that ubiquitous basket-weave texture gave jackets and wraps a chainmail like appearance, and each model was styled like a woodland sprite in an army ready for war. Toni Francesc made a great first impression; his runway sent chills down our spine, and we like it when that happens.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Excitement for Monique Lhuillier's S/S 2011 collection hit before the show even started; the line sheet read like a cornucopia of delicious hues. Caramel, Red Apple, Cream, Sage, and Ivory were but a few, and it's no shocker as Lhuillier's inspiration this season was "a beautiful girl running through a lush garden. Her very own Garden of Eden".

With the caramels and the apples came, naturally, plenty of temptation. Deconstructed blazers and pencil skirts in laminated raffia hid bright crimson blouses, and the ensuing parade of pleated petal bodice tops,high waisted trousers, and drapey jersey cocktail dresses were distinguished yet sexy. Then came Lhuillier's stunning gowns in every manner of gold brocade, moth wing, and delicate floral motif. When people talk about "pretty dresses", this is what they mean. It was tasteful, it was sophisticated, well-edited, blah blah blah...all those industry superlatives. But above all, it was just pretty to look at.

In Monique Lhuillier's menagerie of sartorial temptation this season, we were all but moths in the flame.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

When it comes to men's sportswear, Perry Ellis' name is an axiom - kind of like how dividing by zero is one of those mathematical certainties that requires no proof or explanation: it simply is. That said, we had no reason to expect anything less than the best earlier tonight as we took our seats for Ellis' spring showing.

Wavering palm trees appeared, projected onto the walls of The Stage, and Amanda and I looked at each other and exchanged that "Oh, okay. It's gonna be one of those shows" glance. Pleasant surprise turned into enthusiasm as we were presented with nicely color-blocked navy and sorbet sweaters, double-breasted pastel linen blazers, and shorts/trousers in understated plaid; plenty of fine microprint details and one super-slick black trench towards the end brought it all home.

There was a distinctly Floridian laid-backedness about the collection, but balanced with a sense of pragmatic New England casual - as if someone had plopped Kennebunkport onto Key West.  But most importantly, the entire row of Macy's buyers directly in front of us seemed very, very pleased.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

District L has always been a big THUY fan - designer Thuy Diep is incredibly in touch with her customer. Continually producing collections full of both whimsical basics and tasteful statement pieces, any given THUY collection is a fabulous seasonal trend barometer.

Today at Audi Forum on 47th and Park Avenue, her candy-popped spring collection was...well, an eye-opener - the venti soy latte I guzzled down during the mad dash across town didn't wake me up nearly as much as THUY's runway. Structured frocks in waffled beige and cream with black and violet trim formed a great foundation, interspersed with blazers, layered skirts, and shifts in neon mustard and apricot. The two finale looks, glassy bead and sequin encrusted a-liners, were slow-burners but once your pupils had properly adjusted they were real gems (pun could possibly be intended, but it's late so take it as you will).

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Deconstructed and mercerized trenches and blazers, drop-crotched cotton trousers and shorts, and ragged asymmetrical thermals formed the basis of Mik Cire's S/S 2011 menswear collection, sporting an appetizing palette of Olive green, Jet black, and Blood red. Menswear has been opening itself up to alot of flexible interpretation recently and it was relieving to see a designer not get too too conceptual but still imbue his collection with a clever, creative sensibility. Deconstruction is definitely emerging as a trend for Spring 2011 for both men's and women's, and Mik Cire's supremely wearable sportswear promises to become a fixture for the season.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Newcomer Alexander Berardi didn't come with high expectations, but in one fell swoop he proved everyone wrong. The audience in the Studio today was treated to a well-edited, expertly crafted and, frankly, dead-fucking-on collection of playful sundresses, classic eveningwear, and super-versatile sportswear. As the show progressed, you could see the realization dawning on everyone's face that this was a true gem. The standing O at the end of the video only drives the point home. We're very, very happy that we were front and center for this young designer's pivotal industry moment.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva