District L

"Rigor with sensuality" said Donatella of her spring collection, an elektra-fying parade of energetic, Grecian inspired looks that temper the brand's trademark oozing sexiness with a newfound element of aggressive restraint. Donatella has taken her signature diva - flowing mane, fishtail sequin gown and all - and yanked her back from behind into a highly sartorial, well-edited interpretation of the Versace aesthetic.

We've been seeing a lot of designers in Milan this season step out of their comfort zones and take new approaches to their design process. It stands to reason - with the global economy beginning to take a turn for the better, luxury customer bases are more willing to invest in bolder statement pieces. Versace S/S 2011 embraces the bold turquoise and tangerine hues we've been seeing, but contrasted with beautifully tailored high-waisted skirts and cutout jackets in beige and brilliant white. Take a panoramic view of any seaside island village in the Cyclades and you'll find the same palette - white washed concrete houses with orange tiled roofs and churches with turquoise domed naves.

Finally, the Greek key motif seen on many of the looks was a brave move by the designer - some might say it drives the point a little too far home, but we say it's an assertion of the traditional values of the Versace house.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Images from Style.com

This season, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi spun an escapist narrative of a different sort from what we heard in New York. Instead of a woodland romp a la Monique Lhuillier and Toni Francesc, Fendi's S/S 2011 girl harked back to a youth of fiery romance and reckless adventure spent under the mediterranean sun.

A distinctly seventies vibe prevailed throughout the runway, with a luscious palette of turquoise, copper, tangerine, and poppy spread across a lively assortment of tunics, caftans, and maxi-dresses. Full of vitality and luxury, the deconstructed silhouettes were made for windswept adventures by the seaside; however, the tone of the collection was less sex and more nostalgia. Each look communicated an individual story or memory with evocative geometries, prints, and colors.

Nostalgia isn't Lagerfeld's strong suit, however this season he showed us just how delicate and emotional his design process can be. Fine microprints, darned floral motifs, and strong yet humble silhouettes expertly communicate the complicated array of emotions brought about through reminiscence. The work of both designers is apparent in the collection, yet neither overshadows the other.

Post by Nicolas Sera-Leyva

Images from Style.com