This season, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi spun an escapist narrative of a different sort from what we heard in New York. Instead of a woodland romp a la Monique Lhuillier and Toni Francesc, Fendi's S/S 2011 girl harked back to a youth of fiery romance and reckless adventure spent under the mediterranean sun.
A distinctly seventies vibe prevailed throughout the runway, with a luscious palette of turquoise, copper, tangerine, and poppy spread across a lively assortment of tunics, caftans, and maxi-dresses. Full of vitality and luxury, the deconstructed silhouettes were made for windswept adventures by the seaside; however, the tone of the collection was less sex and more nostalgia. Each look communicated an individual story or memory with evocative geometries, prints, and colors.
Nostalgia isn't Lagerfeld's strong suit, however this season he showed us just how delicate and emotional his design process can be. Fine microprints, darned floral motifs, and strong yet humble silhouettes expertly communicate the complicated array of emotions brought about through reminiscence. The work of both designers is apparent in the collection, yet neither overshadows the other.
Excitement for Monique Lhuillier's S/S 2011 collection hit before the show even started; the line sheet read like a cornucopia of delicious hues. Caramel, Red Apple, Cream, Sage, and Ivory were but a few, and it's no shocker as Lhuillier's inspiration this season was "a beautiful girl running through a lush garden. Her very own Garden of Eden".
With the caramels and the apples came, naturally, plenty of temptation. Deconstructed blazers and pencil skirts in laminated raffia hid bright crimson blouses, and the ensuing parade of pleated petal bodice tops,high waisted trousers, and drapey jersey cocktail dresses were distinguished yet sexy. Then came Lhuillier's stunning gowns in every manner of gold brocade, moth wing, and delicate floral motif. When people talk about "pretty dresses", this is what they mean. It was tasteful, it was sophisticated, well-edited, blah blah blah...all those industry superlatives. But above all, it was just pretty to look at.
In Monique Lhuillier's menagerie of sartorial temptation this season, we were all but moths in the flame.
