District L

It would be impossible to overlook the common denominator on the New York runways last week. From fox to faux, Cennamo to COTA, fur frequented the shows more than any other trend. It surfaced on Day 1 at Ailey Studios for Danilo Gabrielli in the form of sophisticated stoles and trims. Son Jung Wan took a more grandiose approach during her Saturday morning showing, with emerald-toned raccoon jackets and fox-trim toppers.  The following day, Mathieu Mirano received a warm introduction for his red and black fur jackets at the Box in Lincoln Center.

Norisol Ferrari’s presentation on Valentine’s Day morning boasted lush mink jackets, fox-trim trenches, and sable-lined vests. Later that afternoon, I headed over to the Rubin Museum to catch the Josie Natori collection. Over champagne, Natori’s Mongolian boleros and fox-topped gowns were love at first sight, as they dramatically made their way down the museum’s spiraling staircase to an elegant piano soundtrack.

That following day, at the emotionally-charged Joanna Mastroianni showing, marabou magnificently masqueraded as fur, just as it had in days prior. A few hours later, NOMIA added a pelted touch to her streamlined urbanite collection. Raccoon resurfaced at our final show, The Blonds, adding a glittering finish to our sumptuous season.

Rafael Cennamo

Christian Cota

Danilo Gabrielli

Mathieu Mirano

Josie Natori

Son Jung Wan

NOMIA

Post by Amanda LaMela

The designers behind ROCHAMBEAU continue to uproot traditional notions of menswear, both figuratively and literally. Set with levitating trees over a ground of mulch, the Box at Lincoln Center exuded a dark, pagan-like obscurity. The shadows of this prophetic presentation established a suitable backdrop for the bad boys of last season to return.

Now older and wiser, the ROCHAMBEAU boys realize that a blissful homecoming is no longer within reach. Dressed in a casually deconstructed blazer, yet burdened with insight, this strong silent type wonders if he’ll ever recapture the happiness that once came with unawareness. Provoking invitees with leather finger-gloves and trimmed slouch hats, ROCHAMBEAU designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper delivered another high-impact collection for their ardently entrenched fans and followers.

Post by Amanda LaMela

The sound of Blue Jeans (Penguin Prison Remix) by LDR resonated through Lincoln Center’s Studio as the first chiffon-and-fur combination entered Son Jung Wan’s runway on Saturday morning. Since last season, the number of guests filing in for Son nearly doubled – all clamoring to witness her show-stopping pieces like the raccoon fur-lined jacket and navy silk knot gown.

Son Jung Wan launched her namesake brand 12 years ago, gained high-end recognition in Korea, and has now fortified her position as one of the must-see emerging designers in New York.

Post by Amanda LaMela

I walked into Good Units for Loden Dager to Age of Consent by New Order. As I was scanning the attractive, predominantly-male crowd and enjoying the flawless musical transition from New Order to Crystal Castles, I had the heart-dropping realization that my camera had died, already well aware that my phone was soon to follow. With not enough time to run back to my apartment to retrieve my other outdated technologies, I ran over to Best Buy on 62^nd and started barking sales associates into action. After convincing an entire Geek Squad that my issue took precedence over the sweet family purchasing a phone for their teenage daughter, I managed to catch the Rafael Cennamo presentation with a working camera and time to spare.

Complete with tiaras, regal tones, and a take-no-prisoners attitude, the Rafael Cennamo AW 2012 model presentation was an enhanced representation of my manner just minutes prior. Dramatic silhouettes in glittering hues instantaneously commanded the crowd. Dominant at her worst, but majestic at her best, Rafael Cennamo’s lady ruled with a manicured fist.

Post by Amanda LaMela

After a much-needed Friday evening G+T, I waltzed over to Lincoln Center for Katya Leonovich’s AW12 presentation. Once again decorated with her original paintings, Leonovich filled the Box with leather frocks, opera gloves, and enough watercolor prints to snap me out of my one-drink-drowsies.

Continuing her trademark aesthetic – a focus on movement – Katya exhibited ethereal dresses with strappy necklines and soft flounces. She also introduced a new and somewhat contrasting architectural theme, with corset dresses and bodice tops mixing effortlessly with her signature prints.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week announced yesterday the preliminary schedule for the Fall 2012 Collections. A few new names have been added to the list of designers showing at Lincoln Center this season, including last season’s off-site wonders like Kaelen, as well as fresh fashion acquaintances like Mathieu Mirano.

Spring’s sleepy sprites created buzz for Kaelen, who has been showing during Fashion Week for a few seasons. Her presentation at Drive-In Studios was set against a wooded backdrop and featured “moonshine cocktails.” This season, Kaelen Farncombe will be showing in the Box at Lincoln Center on February 9^th.

Mathieu Mirano attracted attention for his Spring 2012 Collection with a cocktail of violent seduction. Mirano narrated the story of a homicidal wife who grew younger as she approached deliberate widowhood. The provocative designer’s presentation will be held in the Box at Lincoln Center on February 12^th.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Last season, ROCHAMBEAU introduced us to sun-kissed, Nordic men with good intentions. Carefully balancing structure with staunch, the ROCHAMBEAUs of AW11 impressed guests with well-edited depth.

And it seems that the label’s tune of “taking chances” continues, as ROCHAMBEAU moves away from the silent stability of last season and into something tougher, darker, more dangerous.

I suppose the mothers of Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper were too fond of the boys from last season. Maybe AW11 texted too much, asking where they were and what they were doing and who they were with and if it would be okay if they came along too. Perhaps it was the last straw when AW11 stopped by with chicken soup and wide eyes when the design duo lied and said they were too sick to go out.

Whatever the case may be, ROCHAMBEAU’s new boy has a motorcycle, a few tattoos he doesn’t remember getting, and a penchant for breaking laws. But this isn’t superficial suburban “anguish” – No, these SS12 boys lived on Avenue C in the 90s and learned a few things from their short stint in Ossining.

Chandler and Cooper have yet again pushed the envelope, instilling a memorable concept and hooking fans for another season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

I sat down in Lincoln Center's Theatre on Monday evening distracted with heartbreak for narrowly missing Norman Ambrose's show. Although it hadn't been the first show I missed this season, it was certainly one of the more anticipated young designers on my schedule.

Then, the booming sounds of City Grrrl by CSS quickly ejected me out of my disappointment. Betsey Johnson's show had begun.

Betsey's daughter, Lulu, took to the runway, for the first time in 10 years, in a sexy, Brigitte Bardot-themed collection. Circling to songs like Ice Cream by New Young Pony Club, Lulu feigned bashfulness when the crowd cheered – that is, until mother dearest entered center stage dancing to Ass & Titties by DJ Assault.

Not a bad Monday, wouldn't you say?

Our Tuesday started with a mystifying presentation by Improvd. The dramatic collection was a crowd-pleaser with its dark elegance and theatrical choreography.

We then left Lincoln Center and headed down to The Lambs Club for the relaunch of Models by Michael Gross. With Nicole Miller, Carmen Dell’Orefice, and Robert DiMauro on the guest list, we partied as if the re-rerelease was its first. After picking up my copy of Models, I bumped into the controversial author himself.

“Ohhh, you’re young! A newbie in this industry,” Michael Gross cooed, “They’re going to chew you up and spit you out in a heartbeat!”

"Don't say that!" I replied defensively.

“Oh, no, babe. I know for a fact. Because in my day, I would have been one of those who would have done that!”

Taking Michael’s advice to heart, I switched gears and preceded downtown for the Holy Ghost! Fashion Week Party at the Tribeca Grand Hotel. Daniel Franzese was loitering out front with friends, discussing his new role in Jersey Shoresical, a musical poking fun at the reality show. Inside, fans danced wildly as they were instructed to hold on… and hold tight.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Flawlessly choreographed, yet effortlessly ethereal, IMPROVD’s model presentation introduced innovative looks with a high dose of drama. Yesterday’s three-act exhibition infused rich pebbled leathers with water-color chiffons in ankle-grazing silhouettes. The juxtaposition of hard and soft, theatrical and relaxed, was done artfully – as opposed to a thoughtless “this-versus-that” model. Drawing an enviable crowd to Lincoln Center’s Box, designer Valentino Vettori understands that all the world’s a stage… and some of us just have better seats.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Minutes before our interview, cameras were devouring Katya Leonovich’s genuine joy and girlish modesty – a refreshing sight, as she stood before her collection this morning at Lincoln Center. Born in Moscow, Katya began her design career in Rome, continued in Paris, and has lived in New York for the past three years.

“It is new American inspiration,” Leonovich elaborated on her original works of football paintings that framed the model presentation. Displaying chiffon in these replicated prints alongside pieced blue denim, Katya exhibited her personal and professional transformation. “I combined the classic silhouettes from Italy with Parisian playfulness,” she explained. “But American football was so new and interesting to me – their costumes were something I had never before seen in Europe,” she explained.

The collection had an underlying theme of movement, with wind-blown hairstyles and sport-inspired backs, as well as draped and angular hemlines. And this ‘movement’ surpassed fabric and stylings, as guests milled through the Box, whispering adoring buzz-words like, “refreshing,” “energizing,” and “innovative.”

I have never eavesdropped on a coach’s winning locker room speech, but it seems like an appropriate time to use a resonating cliché... This win was for the fans.

Post by Amanda LaMela