District L

Due to a series of unfortunate, but probably avoidable events, I was running a half-hour late to Erin Barr’s runway show on Thursday evening at Pier 59 Studios. When I finally arrived, my heart sank as guests were filing out of the studio in the opposite direction. I had missed the entire thing. The fact is, starting on time is easy to do when you pack a house as quickly as Erin. In just four seasons, Barr has earned quite a following with her sexy tomboy aesthetic.  

Luckily, I was able to sneak backstage to catch a glimpse of the post-show insanity and speak to the designer. There was a long line of eager editors and bloggers waiting to talk to her, so I took a moment to delve into her racks. Patterned crop tops and sage green leathers evoked a crisp, natural essence. Indigos and twilight blues were inspired by the landscapes and energy of the “Northwoods,” the area around her family’s cabin Northern Wisconsin.

“Many of my motifs and prints were inspired by the loon,” she told me. I responded with a confused look.

“The loon,” Barr continued, “is a beautiful bird from Northern Wisconsin. Look up a picture – it also has an amazing call.”

In her short bralettes and sheeny fabrics, it was an amazing call, indeed.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Nina Skarra’s F’13 presentation began at promptly mimosa o’clock, with champagne flutes circling the Box for the first showing of the day. Those who accessorized with a demure hangover this morning were favorably informed that Skarra’s collection title, “Frosted Circus,” was not to be taken too literally. Instead, trumpet waists and plunging v-necks in ringleader palettes took center-stage. Skarra’s lioness knits and intricate textures earned an early morning applaud – or rather, the raise of an effervescent glass or two.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Despite yesterday’s early threat of Nemo, I braved the cold and headed to 39^th street for Ann Yee’s penthouse presentation. As guests were teased with the plethora of welcoming knit layers and accessories, models were cozying up to the emerging designer against a snowy, winter backdrop.

She revealed that her inspiration came from Black Mountain College, a now-inactive creative institution that boasted alumni such as Robert DeNiro Sr., Ray Johnson, and Joel Oppenheimer. Three students sat on the floor and live-sketched the presentation from different perspectives, adding a performance art aspect to the presentation. Drawing from the school’s counter-culture philosophy, Yee achieved refined nonchalance in slouchy boucle sweaters and cropped wool jackets. 

Post by Amanda LaMela

Elliott Evan was my last show of the day on Thursday. There were a few shows scheduled for that 7pm time slot, but I had made my decision on EE based on a few factors:

1. I love to see a designer’s New York debut.
2. This hair is amazing.

Despite my somewhat-flawed decision-making process, Elliott Evan’s debut proved to be the correct choice. Deconstructed leathers and draped knits toed the line between danger and androgyny. With their faces speckled with ice and snow, they appeared to have been trekking through Blizzard Nemo, completely disregarding Bloomberg’s storm advisory press conference. (Danger!) Yet, each male model had nail polish that matched the copper tone on my own nails. (Androgyny!)

The collection included shredded hides and face-shielding sweaters. An asymmetrical, super-plush sweatshirt prompted a female guest to deliberate, “I know this is menswear, but I would absolutely wear most of these pieces.” I nodded in agreement. The looks would find a happy home at ØDD, only to be quickly purchased for cozy winter brunches at Freemans or a few coffee cocktails at The Daily. Elliott’s extra-soft tunics would pair perfectly with some striped legwear by Love Beatrice or a pair of leather stove-pipes by Heather Lawton.

Elliott, if you’re reading this, let me know if you’d like me to lighten your luggage before you head back to LA. I can take a few heavy samples off your hands…

“I always forget about this part of Fashion Week,” I thought, as I listened to two name-dropping baritones talk about last night’s party at Finale while we waited for the elevator up to Studio 450. And I’m not talking about the kind of humblebraggery that is expected – even understood – this time of year. No, it was the “I-know-celebrities-and-I-am-going-to-name-them-all-right-now” kind of name-dropping. It’s repulsive.

But when we were finally ushered upstairs, a feeling of calm was restored. The winter-white scene for Heather Lawton’s F13 presentation was set against leafless brushwood. Light poured in from floor-to-ceiling windows, naturally highlighting the depth of every rich fabric and exotic hide. Jackets trimmed with stingray, coyote fur, and pony hair complimented a predominantly black-and-cobalt collection. Flawlessly draped jersey combined with crisp leather separates for an instinctive balance of feminine/masculine.

Before leaving the presentation, I watched the young, stunning designer answer questions with genuine enthusiasm. Eager guests and photographers were maniacally snapping away at her 25 looks positioned around the studio...and that’s the part of Fashion Week I never forget.

Post by Amanda LaMela

Don’t think you’re special, October. I’ve met your kind before. Moody and aloof, you’re just a menopausal April - rain and all. And I’m not afraid to state the obvious: You make a terrible summertime rebound.

It’s fine if you don’t want to stay, October. Just know you’ll be handled like the fussy months that came before you. This season, it’s about more than just “wearing the pants” – it’s about developing a thicker skin.

From the rubber effect added by Lagerfeld to the quilting in A.L.C., ubiquitous leather skinnies are just demanding some tough love. Sure, these looks are all for SS/2013, but let’s face it… Patience is no longer a virtue – it’s a liability.  

A.L.C

Karl Lagerfeld 

Bruno Schiavi

10 Crosby Derek Lam

BLK DNM

Jason Wu

Post by Amanda LaMela

Guests filled The Studio for Katya Leonovich this afternoon, a highly anticipated encore from last season’s presentation. Having outgrown The Box, it seems that Katya’s designs also continue to flourish since her well-received New York debut.

Fashion Week’s favorite young painter remains loyal to the watercolor prints that have earned her such adoring buzz in the past. In addition to her hand-painted corsets and evening gowns, Leonovich includes new rich textures this season, such as python and metallic jacquard.

Post by Amanda LaMela

I never fell victim to ‘Graduation Goggles,’ the assumption that when graduation approaches, and subsequently passes, the only memories that remain are rose-tinted, favorable recollections. I never sat through Pomp and Circumstance with mascara running down my face and I never turned the tassel without feeling anything other than liberation – in fact, I think I spent most of my high school graduation ceremony just hoping the mortarboard wouldn’t leave a mark on my forehead.

I would not choose to relive the years leading up to that Polyester-coated commencement, but for the Dsquared2 twins, reunion is just a season away. And, why not? As it seems that Dean and Dan Caten had a much more glamorous high school experience, cheerfully cloaked in Kelly green croco and mink rugby-striped tops.

Their runway sign announced “Class of 2013” and two disco balls were prepped for a very Dsquared2 “prom.” Toggled coats and crisp button-downs carried over from the collection prior, but I’ll be surprised if the Caten brothers maintain this unusually polished disposition for a third season.

Post by Amanda LaMela

It would be impossible to overlook the common denominator on the New York runways last week. From fox to faux, Cennamo to COTA, fur frequented the shows more than any other trend. It surfaced on Day 1 at Ailey Studios for Danilo Gabrielli in the form of sophisticated stoles and trims. Son Jung Wan took a more grandiose approach during her Saturday morning showing, with emerald-toned raccoon jackets and fox-trim toppers.  The following day, Mathieu Mirano received a warm introduction for his red and black fur jackets at the Box in Lincoln Center.

Norisol Ferrari’s presentation on Valentine’s Day morning boasted lush mink jackets, fox-trim trenches, and sable-lined vests. Later that afternoon, I headed over to the Rubin Museum to catch the Josie Natori collection. Over champagne, Natori’s Mongolian boleros and fox-topped gowns were love at first sight, as they dramatically made their way down the museum’s spiraling staircase to an elegant piano soundtrack.

That following day, at the emotionally-charged Joanna Mastroianni showing, marabou magnificently masqueraded as fur, just as it had in days prior. A few hours later, NOMIA added a pelted touch to her streamlined urbanite collection. Raccoon resurfaced at our final show, The Blonds, adding a glittering finish to our sumptuous season.

Rafael Cennamo

Christian Cota

Danilo Gabrielli

Mathieu Mirano

Josie Natori

Son Jung Wan

NOMIA

Post by Amanda LaMela

The designers behind ROCHAMBEAU continue to uproot traditional notions of menswear, both figuratively and literally. Set with levitating trees over a ground of mulch, the Box at Lincoln Center exuded a dark, pagan-like obscurity. The shadows of this prophetic presentation established a suitable backdrop for the bad boys of last season to return.

Now older and wiser, the ROCHAMBEAU boys realize that a blissful homecoming is no longer within reach. Dressed in a casually deconstructed blazer, yet burdened with insight, this strong silent type wonders if he’ll ever recapture the happiness that once came with unawareness. Provoking invitees with leather finger-gloves and trimmed slouch hats, ROCHAMBEAU designers Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper delivered another high-impact collection for their ardently entrenched fans and followers.

Post by Amanda LaMela