Lanvin really shined with detail this season; while the silhouettes were on trend, construction impeccable, and fabric choices theme adherent, the irreverently techno-industrial detailing is what really separated them from the competition. Oblong beadwork organized into rigid vertical strips echoed circuit-board rigidity, and oversized brooches mimicked robotic chestplates a'la C3PO. The simultaneous incorporation of fur detailing and exposing sheer accents (i.e. human flesh) into many of these same looks created a pleasing tension.
Analyzing and interpreting dichotomies seems to be the fulcrum off of which many collections have been operating this season- the organic versus manmade world has emerged in the runways of several designers. Lanvin is among the first Paris designers to pick up on this theme that seemingly originated in Milan, with designers turning to more natural roots and creating dichotomies between organic and manmade. Fendi picked up on this with their nature-meets-industry themed collection; Prada turned to the outdoors with a more utilitarian, bare-minimum, survivalist story. Even Nicolas Gheresquiere challenged the balance between fluids and solids, upper body and lower body somewhat with the Balenciaga Fall collection.
What tempered the heavy industrial accents of the collection were the feather headpieces that accompanied many looks. Like a lost raven that stumbled into the factory, the last vestige of the organic earth in world run by machines. Headpieces seem to be emerging as a possible capsule-trend for Fall, with Dolce and Gabbana achieving the same effect in Milan with their mismatched glove headpieces.
